SUN CARE
Why skin care is the new sun care - and vice versa
Pascaline Criton - Croda Beauty Actives
‘Sunification’ - the inclusion of UV protection claims in non-sun care specific beauty products - is now commonplace. According to Mintel, 10.2% of face/neck care launches have a UV protection claim. In 2021, the market reached $7.8bn and is predicted to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 8.2% to reach $11.6bn in 2026, according to Euromonitor. Sunification is a play on the word
‘skinification’, a skin care approach to all personal care categories such as hair care, sun care or hygiene. Sun exposure induces different biological pathways targeting lipid, protein and DNA. Those cascades lead to diverse clinical consequences from wrinkles, pigmentary spot, loss of elasticity to immuno-suppression and sun allergies. Sunscreen brands are consequently adding
more skin care actives to prevent and repair those damages to their formulas, or creating tinted sunscreens, blurring the lines between categories. This has given rise to the emergence of hybrid formats with diverse claims such as the following.
Environmental impact on skin barrier Skin exposure to harsh conditions, including UV and IR radiation, can compromise its barrier function causing detrimental skin responses including inflammation and infection, scarring, and abnormal desquamation. It can also further aggravate the effects of skin disorders, such as atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis vulgaris, and chronic xerosis. Interest among younger consumers in skin barrier has accelerated, largely thanks to educational content promoted by TikTok influencers. Thus, ‘#skinbarrier’ has more than 300 million views on the platform. Products with a dermocosmetic positioning are on the rise as consumers become more cautious and lose interest in short-term glow in favour of ‘healthy’ skin. In this context, skin barrier has become the
object of much attention. According to Spate, there are on average 8,500 monthly searches in the US for ‘skin barrier repair’, an increase of +67.9% between 2021 and 2022. Ceramides are particularly in demand as a
natural constituent and an efficient reinforcer of the skin barrier. Their natural function is critical in the constitution of the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum. the application of a cream containing ceramides, on a skin that has
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been damaged by long-term sun exposure, for example, leads to a rapid and efficient repair of the cutaneous barrier and it reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The structure of the epidermis is reinforced: hydration is maintained and resilience to aggression increased.1 Sederma now offers a full range of IECIC-
approved, vegan suitable ceramides, available in several galenic form such as powder, emulsion, or paste, to ease their use in all cosmetic applications. Ceramides from this new ShingoCARE™ range are mainly biotechnology derived and offer some Cosmos-approved ingredients aligned with today’s consumers concerns.
Pigmentation disorders Mintel reports that in Japan 78% of respondents use sunscreens to prevent pigment spots more so than to prevent skin cancer (31%). According to The Benchmarking Company, 82% of US consumers want sunscreens which reduce the appearance of dark pigment spots and skin discolouration. it comes as no surprise considering that
both white and dark spots are visible signs of skin’s sun capital exhaustion.2
It is estimated
that our skin loses half of its sun capital by age 20 and that 7% of people between 21 to 30 years old present skin pigmentation disorders.3 Consequently, it is important to protect the skin’s ‘sun capital’ for a healthy, young and beautiful skin over time. Skin’s sun capital is genetically determined
at birth and varies according to skin phototype and is limited! It is ensured by melanocytes and represents the amount of UV rays sustained by the skin without severe damage (sun burn, pigmentary spots or even actinic keratosis). Melanin production is essential to protect
cells and matrices from sun damage. It is an oxidative process and overproduction of melanin triggered by chronic or high sun exposure amplifies oxidation of the melanocyte leading to cell dysfunctions and resulting in the appearance of dark spots or white spots. Mel[o]stem™, Sederma’s 100% natural- based adaptive active ingredient, which cocoons the melanocyte to preserve skin’s sun capital, offers a cosmetic solution to fade both white and dark spots.
April 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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