44 ANTI-AGEING
both Caucasian and Chinese study panels. The studies were performed in accordance with the principles of good laboratory practice (GLP), good clinical practice (GCP) and in compliance with the quality assurance system requirements. The studies were also conducted in
accordance with the World Medical Association ethical principles defined in the Declaration of Helsinki. All study participants provided their written informed consent at the beginning of the study. Participants were instructed to apply emulsions containing different concentrations of Ilex Extract over a specified period. The Caucasian panel used 0.5% once daily for 28 days. Measurements were performed after 14
and 28 days, for some parameters 30 minutes after application. The Chinese panel used 1% in a single application. Measurements were performed after 30 minutes and after one day. Laser Doppler Flowmetry was utilized to assess changes in skin microcirculation and tissue partial oxygen pressure, while VISIA-CR analysis provided insights into skin texture, redness and wrinkle reduction. Additionally, skin hydration and transepidermal water loss were measured to evaluate the ingredient’s moisturizing effects by cutometry and TEWAmetry. In vitro studies focused on understanding
the cellular mechanisms underlying Ilex Extract’s benefits. These studies involved the use of ex vivo skin explants and 3D reconstructed human epidermis models to assess mitochondrial protection and ceramide production. The accumulation of PINK1, a marker of mitochondrial stress, was measured following UV-A irradiation by immunohistochemistry. Ceramides production was measured
in reference to untreated control by immunohistochemistry as well. Statistics: comparative analysis were done with Wilcoxon signed rank test or Student’s t-test.
Results Yerba maté is native to South America and is traditionally consumed in Brazil, Argentina, Uruguay, and Paraguay (hence the name Ilex paraguariensis). It is renowned for its stimulating effect on the central nervous system, containing on average about 55 mg/100 ml of caffeine,2
making it comparable to coffee, which
contains 23 mg – 143 mg/100 ml caffeine.3 Our water-based extract contains
D0 INCREASE IN MICROCIRCULATION AND SKIN OXYGENATION Placebo ■ Ilex Extract 0.5% ■
100 80 60 40 20 0
p=0.25 * ** ***
*
D0 30 min
D28 Microcirculation
D0 30 min
D28 Skin oxygenation Mean + SEM; n = 25/27
Figure 2: Laser Doppler analysis of microcirculation and transcutaneous partial oxygen pressure revealed significant increases after use of Ilex Extract
TABLE 1: COMPARISON OF COMPOUNDS IN YERBA MATÉ TEA WITH ILEX EXTRACT Phase
Brasilian maté tea Compound
Total polyphenols Caffeine Rutin
Amount (mg / 100 ml) 101 55 8
approximately 13 times the amount of polyphenols, twice the amount of caffeine and 8 times the amount of rutin when compared to conventionally brewed maté tea preparation (Table 1).2
which can be found in some maté tea preparations,4
Our plant material is grown organically and
sustainably in Argentina. For the production of Ilex Extract, we use the leftovers of maté tea production after the drying process which cannot be exploited commercially. As such, our Ilex Extract is an upcycled product. The results of the studies demonstrated the significant impact of Ilex Extract on skin
D28
Ilex Extract
Amount (mg/100 ml) 1350 135 67
A contamination with anthraquinones, was not found in our extract.
health and vitality. In the in vivo study on the Caucasian study panel, a notable increase in skin microcirculation was observed, with a 59.1% improvement after 28 days of application (Figure 2). The active ingredient was able to increase microcirculation by 30% already after 30 minutes. This enhancement in blood flow is attributed to the vasodilatory effects of caffeine and polyphenols, which facilitate an increased delivery of oxygen and nutrients to the skin. Skin oxygenation showed significant
improvement already after 30 minutes, reaching 40.5% after 28 days of once daily application. The increased oxygen delivery supports cellular metabolism and energy production, essential for maintaining healthy skin function. VISIA-CR analysis of the red channel revealed
a visible reduction in skin redness after 14 days (not shown) and 28 days (Figure 3). This is an unexpected result as Ilex Extract increases microcirculation which is typically increasing skin redness. In terms of skin hydration, Ilex Extract led
Figure 3: Ilex Extract decreases skin redness. #24A, female, age 59 years, Ilex Extract 0.5% PERSONAL CARE April 2025
to a 26.9% increase, while transepidermal water loss decreased by 10.5% (Figure 5). These findings indicate the ingredient’s ability to strengthen the skin barrier and retain moisture. The studies also revealed improvements in skin firmness and elasticity, with increases of 12.6% and 20.4%, respectively after 28 days (Figure 4). These changes are likely due to an enhanced collagen synthesis and structural support provided by the active compounds in Ilex Extract.
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Relative to untreated control
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