90 HAIR CARE Recommended formulating pH ranges for Innospec surfactants pH range for organic acid preservatives efficacy Pureact GLT (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate) pH 4 5 Low solubility in acid form opaque 6 7 Pureact SCG (Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate)


Pureact Gluco Grades (Alkyl Glucosides) Amphoacetates & Betaines


(Sodium Methyl Alkyl Taurates) Figure 4: Range of surfactants suitable for formulating at pH 4.0-4.5


has been made that adsorbed species can reduce water uptake by binding/blocking sites in which water would otherwise adsorb, therefore protecting hydrophobic sites on the protein chains. Also, organic acids provide sites which absorb water, keeping water away from the cortex and cuticle structure. This outcome is consistent with the


hypothesis that low pH shampoos improve the integrity of the hair’s protective outer layer, thereby improving moisture retention.


Effect of shampoo pH on colour retention Studies have demonstrated that shampoos with a lower pH can contribute to the preservation of hair colour by minimising the amount of pigment leached from the hair shaft during washing. Several studies have highlighted the benefits of


using acidic shampoos in the context of colour- treated hair. One such study demonstrated that after


repeated washing with a low pH shampoo, hair colour remained more vibrant and was less prone to fading than hair washed with high pH products.12, 13, 14


In practice: surfactants suitable for low pH formulating Not all surfactants are suitable for low pH formulating. Innospec has a series of surfactants for cleansing formulations that are suitable to be formulated at a low pH. Figure 4 shows those surfactants that are compatible and stable at low pH. This includes taurates, amphoacetates, glycinates, amine oxides, betaines, glucosides, glutamates and olefin sulfonates.


TABLE 1: LOW PH COLOUR PROTECTION SHAMPOO H0166 Phase Ingredients


INCI A Naternal® Excel B Aqua Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride


Citric Acid Solution (50% w/w) Citric Acid EMPIGEN® HS/O-C* NANSA® LSS 38/AV Luxuriact® Plus


C Microsil® HAF-MV30* Dissolvine® GL-38


D Sodium Benzoate Potassium Sorbate


E Himalaya AF J34263 F


Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine Sodium C14-C16 Olefin Sulfonate Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate


Propoxytetramethyl Piperidinyl Dimethicone (and) Tride- ceth-6 (and) C11-15 Alketh-7


Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate Sodium Benzoate Potassium Sorbate Fragrance


Citric Acid Solution (50% w/w) Citric Acid Suppliers: 1. Syensqo 2. Innospec 3. Nouryon 4. Azur Fragrances PERSONAL CARE April 2025 www.personalcaremagazine.com 1


2 2 2


2 3


We have used these surfactants to create


a Low pH Colour Protection Shampoo and highlight some of the benefits of these shampoos for coloured hair.


Low pH Colour Protection Shampoo H0166 This mild, sulphate-free shampoo has been designed to include Nansa LSS 38/AV, Alpha Olefin Sulfonate, which is a high foaming, low- cost, anionic surfactant stable at low pH. This has been expertly combined with Empigen® HS/O-C, Cocoamidopropyl Hydroxy Sultaine to give clear formulations, not achievable with other amphoterics, as well as a stable flash foam. The combination of a tertiary surfactant


Luxuriact Plus, a pourable liquid taurate grade of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate which gives added benefits in that it helps to increase deposition


Suppliers w/w (%)


q.s. to 100


0.25 0.01


21.00 10.00 15.00


3.00 0.20


4


0.50 0.40 0.50


q.s. to pH


4.3-4.5 Pureact WS & MS Grades (Sodium C14 Nansa© -C16 LSS Grades Olefin Sulfonate) 8 9


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100  |  Page 101  |  Page 102  |  Page 103  |  Page 104  |  Page 105  |  Page 106  |  Page 107  |  Page 108  |  Page 109  |  Page 110  |  Page 111  |  Page 112  |  Page 113  |  Page 114  |  Page 115  |  Page 116  |  Page 117  |  Page 118  |  Page 119  |  Page 120  |  Page 121  |  Page 122  |  Page 123  |  Page 124  |  Page 125  |  Page 126  |  Page 127  |  Page 128  |  Page 129  |  Page 130  |  Page 131  |  Page 132