MARINE INGREDIENTS
transepithelial electrical resistance An in vitro 3D human epidermis model was used to assess the efficacy of the marine ceramide ingredient at 0.5% (in cream) to enhance the skin barrier integrity (Figure 5). Reconstructed epidermis was damaged, and electric pulses were applied. Transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER), which is the resistance offered by the epidermis was measured; TEER is a widely accepted variable to measure skin integrity.20 A placebo was assessed in this study
to confirm that cream composition did not influence the efficacy of the marine ceramide cream at 0.5%. Results were compared to a healthy epidermis. The marine ceramide at 0.5% increased skin
integrity of the damaged epidermis, increasing tissue resistance by 37% after 48 hours and 47% after 120 hours. Moreover, this ingredient offered an enhanced tissue resistance than a healthy epidermis with 16% of tissue resistance after 120 hours, compared to a healthy skin.
Skin barrier protection: decreased lactate dehydrogenase release After damaging reconstructed epidermis, cell membranes are disrupted, and cells release lactate dehydrogenase (LDH), an enzyme whose released quantity is indicative of the number of lysed cells.21
Marine Lipid Group Marine Lipid compound
Mechanism
Cell adhesion through increased filaggrin expression
Cermides (Sphingolipids)
Ceramide NP*
Cell adhesion through increased caspase-14 expression
Osmoprotection Anti-ageing
Glucosylceramide Phospholipid
Fatty acid and glycerol esters
Phosphatidylcholine* Phosphatidylserine
Triglycerides* Diacylglycerides*
Antioxidant: decreased ROS formation
Lysophosphatidylcholine Keratinocyte proliferation Osmoprotection Anti-inflammatory
Keratinocyte proliferation Keratinocyte proliferation Keratinocyte proliferation
73 Protection Repair Reference X X X
X X
X X X X X
9 10 11 X
X X X
Table 1: Marine lipids found in phytoplankton species with reported bioactivity in skin barrier function. *: lipids detected in the marine ceramide.
15 12 13
14 15 16 17 3
The marine ingredient
was applied to the damaged 3D epidermis and LDH was measured (Figure 6). The marine ceramide at 0.5% increased
skin protection of the damaged epidermis, decreasing cell lysis by 12% in six hours and 28% after 24 hours. The marine ceramide 0.5% increased skin barrier protection thanks to cell protection against external stressors.
Skin barrier renewal: increased cell proliferation The in vitro 3D human epidermis model experiments explored the effects of the marine ceramide at 0.5% in cream in cell proliferation (Figure 7). Resazurin dye (RES) is broadly used as an indicator of cell proliferation, and therefore tissue renewal marker.22 The marine ceramide at 0.5% increased skin
renewal of the damaged epidermis, increasing cell proliferation by 18% in six hours and 35% after 24 hours.
130 110 90 70 50 30
Figure 4: Marine ceramide: mechanism of action: integrity, protection, and regeneration This experiment showed that the marine
ceramide at 0.5% (cream) increases cell proliferation compared to placebo. It improves skin barrier regeneration by increasing cell proliferation.
In vitro lipid anti-peroxidation The external layer of the skin barrier, the stratum corneum, is mostly formed by lipids, mainly ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. Exposure to different stressors makes those
■ Damaged Skin ■ Damaged skin+marine cermide cream 0.5% ■ Damaged skin+Placebo cream ■ Healthy skin
0 20 40 60 80 Time (hours)
Figure 5: Effect of the marine ceramide at 0.5% and Placebo creams on a damaged 3D human epidermis. Replicates=6. TEER: Transepithelial electrical resistance
www.personalcaremagazine.com 100 120
1090 890 690 490 290 90
lipids vulnerable and can be easily degraded due to lipid alteration. The marine ceramide at 1% protects
lipids from alteration (peroxidation), so it is a protector of the skin barrier lipids against external oxidants.
Clinical study: the novel marine and natural ceramide NP for skin barrier The marine ceramide was tested in a comparative study with the synthetic ceramide NP. Both
Damaged Skin ■
Damaged skin+marine cermide cream 0.5% ■ Damaged skin+Placebo cream ■ Healthy skin ■
0
20
40
60
80 Time (hours)
Figure 6: Effect of the marine ceramide at 0.5% and Placebo creams on a damaged 3D human epidermis. Replicates=6. LDH: Lactate Dehydrogenase
April 2025 PERSONAL CARE
100
120
TEER (%)
LDH (%)
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