54 SUN CARE


Global skin defences Protection against urban pollutants and environmental aggressors is key for consumers in South Korea. Demand for ‘skinscreens’ that potentially offer full protection from pollutants is predicted to increase in coming years.4 This trend is also visible in other parts of


the world. Atmospheric pollution and excess of UV doses are considered as a ‘pandemic’ for human health with dramatic rate of induced diseases. It is thus common sense to associate UV and pollution damage protection into skin care products. Citystem® from Sederma is a perfect


candidate to provide the skin with a shield against pollutants but also to repair their damage. It acts at four levels to leave the skin radiant and purified. This eco-designed ingredient, Cosmos-approved, protects skin cells from the pollutants penetration and genetic ravage while removing and neutralising toxic oxidant species that damage proteins and lipids. It also strengthens the skin barrier,


stimulates the skin’s natural antioxidants and repairs cell metabolism by replenishing energy level and reducing inflammation. A perfect ally to sun filters for a global skin defence against external aggressors.


Photo-ageing and skin structure South Korean ‘skintellectuals’ are looking for sun care products imbued with skin care benefits such as anti-ageing solutions, intensive moisturising properties and soothing or anti- inflammatory elements.4 This results from a now well-established


understanding that overexposure to sun leads to premature ageing. This phenomenon called photoageing is directly linked to the UV radiation deleterious effects on skin structure. Epidermis of UV-irradiated skin produces


several enzymes (matrix metalloproteinases – MMPs), which degrade dermal collagen and elastin fibres, as well as components of epidermal base membrane, leading to both epidermal and dermal deterioration and accelerated skin ageing. Overwhelming clinical and histological


evidence indicate that certain structural changes induced by excessive sun exposure can be reversed, to some extent, by the use of topical retinoids.5 Retinol has demonstrated its incredible


beauty benefits for decades but also its drawbacks, such as skin irritation and chemical instability. It is often recommended to use retinol progressively few times per week at low concentration, preferably in the evening skin care routine. Sederma offers an encapsulated version


of this hero ingredient: ReVitAlide™ is a lipid submicron particle carrying 3% active retinol. This high-tech capsule provides enhanced stability, protecting retinol from degradation and making it easy to store and formulate. The small particle size and unique lipid


composition of the capsule greatly improves bioavailability into the skin, with a controlled release process of the encapsulated retinol. The protection of the active and enhanced


PERSONAL CARE April 2025


Figure 1: Decrease of the dark spots after two months application of 3% Mel[o]stem/ representative image analysis of white spot depth reduction by Mel[o]stem


delivery into the skin reinforces the efficacy of retinol allowing to minimise its use level while offering excellent skin tolerance (no skin sensitisation). Skin delivery of ReVitAlide measured on skin explants showed a sevenfold increase in the delivery of retinol into the skin versus non-encapsulated retinol. ReVitAlide has been demonstrated to


be more stable to air, UV and heat than free retinol. This IECIC compliant ingredient is also a sustainable ingredient with a 95.5% natural origin content according to ISO 16128), it is 100% readily biodegradable in 28 days, RSPO approved and can be stored at room temperature .


Thermoregulation Scientists have known about the existence of infrared radiation (IR) as long as they have known about the existence of UV, but it was associated with skin damage and premature ageing until only recently.6 Generally considered harmless, chronic


IR exposure under painless conditions (without thermal injury) nevertheless causes some skin disturbances, such as erythema, hyperpigmentation and neovascularisation.7 IR radiation, which represents more


than half of the energy emitted by the sun, penetrates the skin daily and induces stress,


which is characterised by heat in association with ROS production. After intense screening, a biotechnological ferment (Thermus thermophilus) with multifunctional and heat stable enzymes, sourced from deep ocean waters and characterised as ‘smart’ due to the enhancement of its protective activities with heat, has been demonstrated to provide solutions to the skin problems caused by IR. Venuceane® has the ability to stimulate


its detoxifying properties (GPO-, catalase-, SOD-like) and to stop the spread of oxidative stress (ROS production) under the effect of a rise in temperature. Thus, is significantly impacts IR ageing by neutralising and soothing inflammation generated by the infrared radiation, improving hydration by protecting the mitochondrial integrity (ATP synthesis and mitochondrial water), protecting dermal fibres against IR-induced denaturation hence maintaining the integrity of collagen and the architecture of elastin. This extremozyme ingredient has been


proven to meet expectations for a new generation of photo-protection against UV and IR-induced ageing.


Make the most of sun radiation! Human exposure to sun radiation also brings beneficial health effects like mood boosting


www.personalcaremagazine.com BEFORE AFTER


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