96 DERMOCOSMETICS
As a result, APPS was found to penetrate the dermis, functioning more effectively in the epidermis and dermis than other vitamin C derivatives, including ascorbyl glucoside (AG) and ascorbyl tetraisoparmitate (VC-IP) (Figure 2). Owing to this high performance,3 dermocosmetic products containing APPS have been developed for adoption in aesthetic medicine and beauty salons.
APPS and TPNa for acne care Millions of individuals worldwide suffer from acne, a prevalent dermatological ailment, increasing the demand for products that can successfully control and treat its symptoms. The factors associated with acne include environmental factors, such as UV radiation, air pollution, tobacco consumption, psychological stress, diverse microorganisms, and nutrition. Vitamins and their derivatives have the potential to counteract the oxidative stress and inflammation triggered by UV.4 For example, research indicates that TPNa
suppresses the inflammation caused by UV-B produced in cells under oxidative stress. To evaluate this, normal human epidermal keratinocytes were precultivated in growth media until confluent, after which TPNa, TAc, or dipotassium glycyrrhizinate (G2K), a commonly used anti-inflammatory drug, was added (Figure 3). Approximately 24 hours after administration, the cells were exposed to UV-B (60 mJ/cm2
),
and the culture medium was collected. The anti-inflammatory effects of secreted
prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), an inflammatory marker, were assessed using an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. TPNa was found to suppress PGE2 production, whereas TAc and G2K exhibited little to no suppressive activity (Figure 3). Owing to its strong anti-inflammatory effects,
TPNa is widely used in acne care products. Some dermatological clinics offer cosmetic treatments for acne in combination with oral medicinal care. Dr. Ikeno, a well-known dermatologist specializing in acne treatment, reported at the conference of the Society of Investigative Dermatology (SID) that TPNa had a significant effect on erythema in post-inflammatory acne lesions (efficacy rate of the acne symptoms: 1% TPNa lotion, 73.7%; vehicle lotion, 35.3%; 40 patients, 4-week-treatment).4 This might have been achieved by the high
anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects of TPNa (Figure 3). It was formulated in a watery lotion formula (approximately 2%), which required a high solubility, since individuals with acne tend to not use oily formulations, such as creams. Figure 4A shows the significant example of acne patient using TPNa cosmetic lotion for one month. Dr. Ikeno found that TPNa- containing cosmetics are especially suited for initial acne care, treating erythema and inflammation. After this initial treatment, APPS plays a role in subsequent acne symptoms. Owing to their ability to scavenge oxidants on the skin, such as reactive oxygen species (ROS),3
ascorbyl
phosphate derivatives, including APPS, can be used to treat acne (Figure 4B). A previous clinical test report also revealed
PERSONAL CARE April 2025
Figure 1: The vitamin derivatives TPNa and APPS can penetrate the epidermis via the stratum corneum more effectively than vitamin C and E alone
that the combination of topical application and iontophoresis therapy with a 1% APPS lotion was effective for both acne and erythema around acne lesions. RGB analysis of the effects of APPS on acne lesions showed a reduction in inflammation to 67% of the initial inflammation at 2 months and 47% at 4 months, highlighting the rapid results of APPS compared to other provitamins.5
APPS and TPNa: Fine-line erasers for anti-ageing dermocosmetics products A common sign of ageing is crow’s feet around the eyes. Responses to a survey demonstrated that the eye area is prone to issues including fine lines (56.8%) and dryness (55.7%). Moisturizing the skin is one way to improve fine lines since wrinkles are mainly caused by the degradation of cellular matrix components,
80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
-10 60.3 44.4
including collagens and elastins, due to photoageing induced by UV-A radiation. Free radicals, primarily ROS induced
by UV-A radiation, play important roles in photoageing. TPNa promotes ceramide synthesis and improves trans-epidermal water loss,6
whereas APPS improves skin dryness
through anti-oxidative efficacy.1,3 This suggests that both of the vitamin
derivatives established here may act as active anti-fine line ingredients by improving skin hydration. Wrinkles are more closely related to dermal structural ageing than to superficial hydration. At this point, APPS could be effective because it promotes collagen synthesis by permeating deep into the skin, where collagen-generating fibroblast cells exist.3 A previous study found that APPS suppresses superoxide production and
9.8 0.2
APPS 0.5%
APPS 1%
Ethyl As 1%
0.2
Ethyl As 2%
0.0
VC-IP 1%
0.0
VC-IP 3%
0.0
GO-VC 0.5%
0.0
GO-VC 1%
AG 2%
Figure 2: Graph showing the release of vitamin C (AsA) after 24 hours of topical application of vitamin C derivatives on the reconstructed skin model. Once applied onto the skin, the vitamin derivatives penetrate the skin and are digested by epidermal enzyme into vitamin C. Abbreviations; Ethyl As: ethyl vitamin C, VC-IP: ascorbyl tetraisoparmitate, GO-VC: caprylyl 2-glyceryl ascorbate and AG: ascorbyl glucoside
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Released ASA (nmol/wel)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132
