ANTI-AGEING
Upcycled maté tea for healthy ageing
Stefan Hettwer, Emina Besic Gyenge, Loya Schoeffel, Chiara Degl’Innocenti, Brigit Suter, Elisa Starace, Barbara Obermayer – Rahn ABSTRACT
Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract (Yerbaluxe®-Pearl, in the following Ilex Extract), sourced from left-overs from the yerba maté tea production, is a potent ingredient for enhancing skin vitality and supporting healthy ageing. Rich in polyphenols, caffeine, and rutin, it improves skin microcirculation, skin oxygen supply, hydration, and firmness and elasticity, contributing to a youthful appearance. The extract strengthens the skin barrier and protects mitochondria, essential for maintaining cellular health and energy production. Its sustainable production from upcycled maté dust aligns with eco-friendly practices. By fostering resilience and vitality, Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract supports the skin’s natural functions, making it a valuable addition to skincare regimens focused on longevity and holistic wellbeing.
The concept of ‘skin energy’ is central to dermatology and cosmetic science, representing the skin’s vitality, radiance, and overall health. Low energy is indicative of fatigue, dullness, and ageing, while high skin energy is often associated with a luminous, youthful complexion. One of the critical factors influencing skin energy is oxygenation, which is closely linked to skin microcirculation. Skin oxygenation refers to the process by
which oxygen is delivered to skin cells, a vital function for maintaining cellular metabolism and energy production. The skin receives oxygen primarily through the blood supply from capillaries, which deliver oxygen-rich blood to the dermal layers. Additionally, a small amount of oxygen is absorbed directly from the air through the outermost layer of the skin, the epidermis (Figure 1).1
This dual mechanism ensures that skin
cells can perform essential functions such as repair, regeneration, and protection against environmental stressors. Microcirculation plays the crucial role in this process. It facilitates the delivery of oxygen and nutrients to the skin while removing waste products and carbon dioxide. A good microcirculation prevents parts of the skin become hypoxic and less functional. Ilex Extract, derived from the yerba maté
plant, offers a unique solution to enhance skin energy by improving microcirculation and tissue
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oxygenation. Yerba maté is rich in caffeine, polyphenols, and rutin,2
compounds known for
their vasodilatory and antioxidant properties. These components work synergistically to increase blood flow, enhance oxygen delivery, and protect the skin from oxidative stress, while avoiding skin redness to appear. This article explores the scientific basis
of Ilex Extract, examining its sourcing, environmental impact, and the mechanisms through which it enhances skin vitality. By
understanding the relationship between skin oxygenation and microcirculation, we can appreciate the potential of Ilex Extract as a transformative ingredient in skincare.
Methods The efficacy of Ilex Extract was evaluated through a series of in vivo and in vitro studies designed to assess its impact on various skin parameters. The multi-ethnic in vivo studies employed a double- blind, placebo-controlled design involving
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Stratum corneum
Stratum basale Damaged Papillar dermis Microvessels
Figure 1: Skin oxygenation comes from air oxygen and capillary oxygen. Both sources create an oxygen gradient with a minimum in the area of the stratum basale of the epidermis and the stratum papillare of the dermis. Poor microcirculation can lead to hypoxia (low oxygen partial pressure). Increasing microcirculation can strengthen the internal oxygen supply
April 2025 PERSONAL CARE Mitochondria Hypoxia Healthy Mitochondria
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