36 MARINE INGREDIENTS The silicone shell ingredient can serve as a
natural greenhouse gas trap and wastewater treatment system, sourcing nutrients from nearby food industry water. Each ton of algae growth traps eight tons of carbon dioxide and ensures recirculation of nitrogen and phosphorus instead of releasing these to the environment. The organic byproduct can be used as energy, feed and fertilizer. The product has been verified by the
international network Ecocert and is Natrue and COSMOS-approved with a Natural Index 1 according to ISO 16128. In addition, it has been certified Kind to Biome. Just like the diatom shells can protect and nourish the algae in several ways, it can do the same for your skin.
Enhancing sunscreen efficacy Diatom shells, with the microscopic silica structures, have been scientifically proven to possess UV-blocking properties, thereby enhancing the sun protection factor (SPF) of sunscreens. Swedish Algae Factory’s research team has published several reports confirming this novel discovery. In 2018, a collaborative study with esteemed
researchers was published in the journal, Nature Science Reports. This study revealed that diatom shells protect the DNA of diatoms from harmful ultraviolet light.4
The shells reflect,
scatter and absorb UV light. Part of the UV light also seems to be converted to visible light through photoluminescence.. A recent study by De Tommasi et al. further
highlighted the unique UV-B light blocking and manipulation capabilities of diatom shells.5
The
study found that a single diatom shell (frustule) of the diatom specie Pleurosigma strigosum blocked 72% of incoming UV-B light. These scientific breakthroughs translate
into real-life benefits, offering consumers an effective and sustainable SPF boosting solution. In 2020, the first in vitro clinical study was
conducted by an external institute to verify whether UV light manipulation could increase the SPF of sunscreen products. The formula consisted of a combination of the silicone shell ingredient at a concentration of 0.1% with the well-known physical UV filters, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, in a sunscreen formulation. This was compared with a control formula.
The test products were applied as a thin film on an appropriate synthetic substrate, and UV absorbance was measured using a spectrophotometer. The result showed that 0.1% of the ingredient boosted the SPF of the formulation by an average of 23%. In 2022, the SPF-boosting effect in
sunscreen formulations was clinically validated through in vivo studies, using both inorganic and organic UV filters. The addition of 0.1% of the ingredient increased the SPF in formulations by an average of 13%. For the study with organic UV filters, the
standard formulation from ISO 24444:2019 was used. A standard formulation with 0.1% of the ingredient was compared to a control. The tests with organic UV filters showed that the addition of 0.1% of the ingredient increased the SPF by an average of 11%.
PERSONAL CARE April 2025
14 13 12 11
10
13.3 13%
11.8 11.1 10.2
Titanium dioxide and Zinc oxide
Figure 2: Average SPF booster in vivo results
90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Bare skin
Gel without Algica
Figure 3: (Δ) SQOOH content (ng/mg)
Protecting against urban air pollution The distinctive mesoporous architecture of diatoms exhibits an ability to hinder the infiltration of harmful atmospheric pollutants, commonly encountered in urban environments, into the dermal layer. A clinical study performed by proDERM substantiated that the silicone shell ingredient blocks up to 29% of pollutants, including Nitrogen Oxides (NOx) and Particulate Matter (PM), from permeating the skin. This study quantified an increase in the
concentration of squalene monohydroperoxide (SQOOH) in the skin subsequent to pollution exposure. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) - constituents of the pollutant - can cause reactions with various primary components of the skin, such as lipids, DNA, and proteins. The interaction of ROS with lipids
precipitates the formation of peroxidation byproducts in skin sebum, specifically Malondialdehyde (MDA) and SQOOH, which were selected for this study. The study measured the increased SQOOH concentration when pollution was added to: ■ Bare skin ■ Skin with the addition of a gel containing only water and a gelling agent ■ Skin with the addition of the gel + 0.1% of the ingredient ■ Skin with the addition of the gel + 0.5% of the ingredient The results showed an average 24% lower SQOOH content in skin exposed to a gel with
0.1% of the ingredient and an average 29% lower SQOOH content in skin exposed to a gel with 0.5% of the ingredient. In a second study, the L parameter was
evaluated. In L-value tests, the ingredient blocked five times more carbon particles from entering the skin compared to bare skin. The L parameter, one of the coordinates of the CIE 1976 (L*, a*, b*) colour space, is used to express the colour’s brightness. L*=0 indicates black, L*= 100 indicates white. The increase of the L parameter of the
analyzed area indicates a shift in the colour towards white. A Minolta Chromameter CR200 was used for an accurate and objective evaluation of the colour of the surfaces. The shift in colour towards white after rinsing off the cream formula indicates that pollution is adhering to the cream and is thereby hindered from entering the skin. The ingredient at 0.1% in a water-based
solution was compared to untreated skin in this study. A carbon black powder was used as a pollutant in the tests. Evaluation of skin radiance through analysis of the L parameter showed a statistically significant increase of around 50% of the L parameter for a solution with 0.1% of the ingredient. The untreated area showed an insignificant increase of the L value of 5%.
Controlled release of actives In the pursuit of scientific innovation, Swedish Algae Factory has initiated a pioneering project focusing on the encapsulation and
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Gel with 0.1% Algica
Gel with 0.5% Algica
Zinc oxide
Avobenzone, Ensuizole and Octinoxate
Control ■ 0.1% Algica ■ 13.5
11% 12.2
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