HAIR CARE
each cycle). The cycle was washed up to 10, 15 and 30 times for each hair tress, in triplicate. Colour measurements were taken before and after complete wash-and-dry cycles on white background and spectrophotometric measurements were taken at five points evenly distributed along its length. ∆E the difference in the red value was calculated, based on pre and post treatment measurements of each hair switch. There are several interesting points that can
be seen from Figure 5. Firstly, H0166 base no conditioners, had less colour difference and gave a colour protection benefit over the SLES control shampoo especially after 30 washes. This shows that the tertiary surfactants alone at pH 4.0 have some colour protection benefit over SLES. Secondly, the results in graph 1 show that the addition of the Propoxytetramethyl Piperidinyl Dimethicone (and) C11-15 Alketh-7 (and) Trideceth-6 further enhanced the colour protection properties of the shampoo slightly compared to the surfactants alone, leading to strong colour protection benefits overall. Thirdly, when the full chassis with only
Alpha Olefin Sulfonate and no Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate or Cocoamidopropyl Hydroxy Sultaine is tested, colour protection is not as good as the full formulation. This shows the benefit of the secondary and tertiary surfactants in the deposition of conditioning agents which also enhance colour protection. Finally, looking at the H0166 colour
protection shampoo at pH 4.0 we see much less colour loss and colour protection. This is also very prominent between 10, 15 and 30 washes.
Colour retention shampoo dry hair combing data Similarly to colour retention, we have completed a series of combing experiments to compare the different formulations on dry combing. Using DBE hair switches, switches were washed 5x in the 5 H0166 shampoos described previously. Switches were allowed to dry at RT and the combing force was measured using the texture analyser combing rig. It can be seen from Figure 6 that the
chassis of surfactants alone without conditioners and without silicone do not improve the combing forces significantly compared to the SLES control. However, when we have the Alpha Olefin Sulfonate chassis and conditioning agents show a significant improvement in reducing the combing force compared to SLES control and chassis no conditioners. The conditioning agents are depositing
from the Alpha Olefin Sulfonate chassis onto the hair. This is enhanced further in the full H0166 formulation as the inclusion of tertiary surfactant Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate will enhance the deposition of the conditioning agents. Innospec's Low pH Colour Protection
Shampoo H0166 improves the dry combing of switches compared to an SLES control base. Having a low combing force is indicative that hair switches are conditioned, and the end
www.personalcaremagazine.com Dry Combing Data for Coloured Yak Hair
3500 3000 2500 2000 1500 1000 500 0
92
SLES pH 5.0
Control
Conditioners
Ho166 No
No Microsil Formulation
Figure 6: Results to show the Dry Combing Performance of Low Ph shampoo: (1) Control SELS at pH 5.0; (2) H0166 Formula with no conditioners (3); Formula with no silicone (4) No Taurate/ AOS only chassis pH4.0 (5) H0166 Formula Low pH 4.0
consumer can easily comb hair with less tug, which in turn helps to reduce hair damage.
Conclusion Is the myth washing and rinsing your hair in lemon juice or apple cider vinegar supported by the science? The use of low pH shampoos offers several
benefits to hair care, as demonstrated through DVS and DSC data in the literature. Low pH formulations help maintain hair hydration by improving moisture retention and preserving the structural integrity of the hair fibres, furthermore, by maintaining a closed cuticle, and promoting moisture retention, acidic shampoos help extend the life of hair dye and improve the overall health of colour-treated hair. The results of this study support the
hypothesis that Innospec’s Low pH Colour Protection Shampoo H0166 provides hair combing benefits as well as being excellent for colour protection and helping consumers to retain hair colour for longer.
References 1. Housman R. Hair and Identity: Cultural Norms and Personal Expression in Grooming. Journal of Social Psychology. 2021; 45(3), 245-256
2. Silverman S, Turner C. The Evolution of Hair Care: From Ancient Rituals to Modern Science. International Journal of Dermatological Science. 2019; 67(4), 115-130
3. Human Hair Keratin Protein, Hair Fibers And Hydroxyapatite (Ha) Composite Scaffold For Bone Tissue Regeneration. Samuel Siyum..
Materials Science, Medicine, Engineering. 2014
4. Arora P, Arun N, Karan M. Shampoos based on synthetic ingredients vis-à-vis shampoos based on herbal ingredients: A review. Int. J. Pharm. Sci. Rev. Res. 2011, 7, 41–46
5. Popescu C, Gummer C. DSC of human hair: A tool for claim support or incorrect data analysis? Intl J Cos Sci. 2016; 38(5) 433-439
6. Evans T. Your Hair on Acid: The Influence of Carboxylic Acids. Cosmetics and Toiletries. 2018; 133, 40-48
7. Evans T, Wickett RR (Eds.) Practical Modern Hair Science. Allured Business Media. 2012; page 341
8. Dias et al. The shampoo pH can affect the hair: myth or reality? International Journal Of Trichology. 2014; 6(3), 95
9. Bouillon C, Wilkinson J. The Science Of Hair Care, Second Edition, L’Oréal Recherche.
PC
10. Wenjie Qu , Xueping Guo , Guixin Xu, Songyan Zou. Improving the Mechanical Properties of Damaged Hair Using Low- Molecular Weight Hyaluronate. Molecules. 2022; 27(22):7701
11. Evans T. Measuring the water content of hair. Cosmetics and Toiletries. 2014; 129(2) 64-69
12. Evans T. New ideas and thoughts on hair breakage. Cosmetics and Toiletries. 2017; 132(8) 46-53
13. Evans T. Quantifying Hair Color Fading. Cosmetics and Toiletries. Jan 2015
14. Bendejacq D. Assessing the Impact of Hair Damage Types on Color Retention. Cosmetics and Toiletries. 30 May 2013
April 2025 PERSONAL CARE
HO166
No Taurate/ AOS only pH 4.0
HO166
Colour Protect Shampoo pH 4.0
HO166
Average Max Force (g)
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