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COVER STORY: ASHLAND Glossymeter result
2.50 2.00 1.50 1.00 0.50 0.00
Placebo ■ 5% collapeptyl™ ■ 48% **
Boosting 20 collagen chains of the skin collaverse™ We first investigated the synergistic effect of our bifunctional in ex vivo skin on the level of two key markers of skin, collagen I and hyaluronic acid. The topical application of 5% collapeptyl™ on normal skin biopsies was associated with an observed increase in collagen I and hyaluronic acid contents after 48 hours (+ 44% and +57% respectively) (Figure 2). Solutions containing each constituent isolated of collapeptyl™ at the same concentration found in 5% collapeptyl™, applied on the same ex vivo skin, showed a smaller effect than collapeptyl™. Moreover, if we combine the effect of each component of collapeptyl™ given separately, collapeptyl™ effect is greater, demonstrating the synergistic effect of collapeptyl™(Figure 2). Secondly, the effect of collapeptyl™ was studied on different parts of the collagen family. which comprises 28 members, 20 of which are skin related in what we call the collaverse™. Based on their structural and functional properties, this collaverse™ superfamily can be divided into several categories. The best represented category is fibril-forming collagens, including collagens I and III, which constitute over 90% of skin’s collagen content. The others, nonfibrils-forming collagens, are divided into 7 categories: fibrils-associated collagens, network-forming collagens, multiplexin collagens, beaded filament-forming collagen, transmembrane collagens, anchoring fibrils and hexagonal network-forming collagens.5 Even if these collagens are considered as a minority in skin, their roles are essential in cell anchorage, structural function and signaling.6 The sequences of peptides used in
collapeptyl™ match with 20 collagens sequences. Thus, during this study, the effect of collapeptyl™ was investigated on the expression of 20 collagen-chains distributed in the 8 collagen’s categories on skin biopsies, on in vitro fibroblasts and keratinocytes either by immunostaining or by qPCR. The results obtained following the application of 5% collapeptyl™ on ex vivo skin or 0.5% of collapeptyl™ on in vitro cells, showed an enhancement in all collagens studied and were summarized in Figure 2.
T4h-T0 T0
Fine lines smoothness after 5% collapeptyl™ mask application T30min
T4h
Exploring collapeptyl™ as a sensorial booster The sensorial effect of collapeptyl™, provided by the cellulose gum part, was assessed by comparing a formula containing 5% collapeptyl™ with a formula containing 5% silicone, on two different blind panels (8 experts and 10 non-experts). Both panelists found that the cream containing collapeptyl™ had the same texturing effect than the silicone formulation with a better quick break and playtime highlighting the texturing effect of the biofunctional (Figure 3).
Asian women, 50-year-old Figure 4: Glow and smooth effect of 5% collapeptyl™ biofunctional on Asian volunteers PERSONAL CARE April 2025
Visual skin benefits, tested on Caucasian and Asian panel Two clinical double-blind studies were designed to highlight the interest to combine
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ΔSkin glossy value
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