MARINE INGREDIENTS
controlled release of retinol with the help of diatoms. Initial results are promising, primarily the
attainment of a slow, regulated release of retinol extending up to a duration of 12 hours. This pioneering project has the potential to provide a sustainable and effective solution for the delivery of slow-release skin care actives. These promising results continues our
exploratory journey, and the project will be on-going for another year. The goal is to further refine this controlled-release method and explore its broad potential to enhance the efficacy of personal care products. This significant advancement facilitates the sustained delivery of retinol, an essential ingredient known for its robust anti-aging and dermal rejuvenation properties but also holds promise for encapsulation and controlled release for other valuable actives.
Comparative analysis of moisturizing properties Furthermore, external scientific studies were conducted to compare the moisturizing effect of the silicone shell ingredient with hyaluronic acid and glycerin. The surface of freshly extracted diatom frustules is characterized by a high amount of hydroxyl groups. The studies showed that the ingredient
has moisturizing properties at least equivalent to those of hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 800-1200 kDa. In the study, parameters such as skin
capacitance, conductance, and trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured two and four hours after a single application of the creams. Simultaneously, a cosmetic evaluation test
was conducted, wherein participants were asked to rate the attributes of the creams on a Visual Analogue Scale (VAS) post-application.
1.0 0.9 0.8 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4
10-1 Figure 4: Controlled release of retinol
The creams containing the ingredient and hyaluronic acid were rated on a scale of 1 to 16, with 1 representing ‘Very difficult/worse’ and 16 representing ‘Very easy/best’. The results showed a preference for the
ingredient over hyaluronic acid, with the cream being perceived as easier to apply and better absorbed by the skin. A subsequent study was carried out comparing the ingredient with glycerin. The results indicate that the ingredient has a superior moisturizing effect compared to glycerin after 24 hours.
Absorption and cleansing efficacy Thanks to its unique pore structure and large surface area, the ingredient can effectively absorb impurities, oil, and sweat from the skin. In a comparative study with a commonly used high absorbency cleansing ingredient, the silicone shell ingredient was found to absorb ten and 15 times more sweat and oil respectively. Moreover, the highly developed porous
100 Time (h) 101
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www.personalcaremagazine.com
April 2025 PERSONAL CARE
Fractional release (m substance/mtot
substance)
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