68 FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
imparted at rest, but not noticeable once shear is applied, such as spraying or spreading on the skin). Microfibrillated cellulose-stabilised emulsions allow improved play-time on the skin versus aqueous systems while also allowing delivery of oil-soluble actives in a low viscosity, but stable system. The resulting emulsions provide lightweight, non-tacky sensory with a soft, silicone-like skin feel in a natural low viscosity system (Table 2). The skin blurring, mattifying properties of
microfibrillated cellulose allow delivery of oil- soluble actives in a fresh-feeling system, perfect for scalp care or acne-targeted products, especially considering that this matte finish is non-drying, due to the water-retention properties of the microfibrillated cellulose. Additionally, due to the pH, electrolyte
and temperature tolerance of microfibrillated cellulose, the resulting emulsions are also stable against changes in pH, electrolytes and temperature, which is a key advantage of microfibrillated cellulose over chemically modified cellulose derivatives.
Conclusion Due to consumer demand, the cosmetics industry is shifting towards natural alternatives for traditionally used synthetic materials. However, consumers are more demanding than ever, not wanting to compromise on performance or skin feel in order to achieve naturality. Microfibrillated cellulose brings naturality, without compromising performance. producing cold-processable, pH and electrolyte tolerance systems, all alongside a simple INCI with high biocompatibility and low irritation potential and providing hydration to the skin. Use of microfibrillated cellulose and its
derivatives to stabilise oil-in-water systems can offer benefits over traditional emulsifiers. The emulsion systems produced are typically ultra fluid, very low viscosity systems that are sprayable in nature, but maintain play time on the skin.
PC
References 1.
Alibaba.com Beauty Textures Forecast 2025: 5 Trends That Will Dominate. 11 September 2024.
TABLE 2: EXAMPLE FORMULATION Phase Ingredients / INCI A
Deionized Water B C
Valids S+ CS-8 (INCI: Aqua, Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Benzoate Potassium Sorbate) Xanthan Gum Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil Caffeoyl Methoxytryptamine, Metyl Propanediol Parfum
D
Sodium Polyphosphate Sodium Benzoate Potassium Sorbate Citric Acid
Figure 3: Generated visualisation of entangled 3D network of microfibrillated cellulose fibres suspending oil droplets in a water continuous phase
https://reads.alibaba.com/beauty-textures- forecast-trends-that-will-dominate/
2.
NewBeauty.com. Milky Toner and Skin Care Is Trending—Here Are Our Favorites. 11 January 2024.
https://www.newbeauty. com/milky-skin-care-products/
3. Costa C et al. Cellulose as a Natural Emulsifier: From Nanocelluloses to Macromolecules. In: Cellulose Science and Derivatives. InTechOpen. 1 December 2021.
https://www.intechopen.com/ chapters/77903
4. Li T et al. Developing fibrillated cellulose as a sustainable technological material. Nature. 2021; 590, pp. 47–56
5. Hannuksela M. Skin contact allergy to emulsifiers. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. February 1988.
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/ abs/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00579.x
6. Hannuksela M et al. Contact sensitivity to emulsifiers. Contact Dermatitis. August 1976.
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/ abs/10.1111/j.1600-0536.1976.tb03027.x
7. Uter W et al. Contact Allergy: A Review of Current Problems from a Clinical Perspective. Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2018, 15(6), 1108.
https://www.mdpi. com/1660-4601/15/6/1108
Credit: TER Chemicals
% w/w q.s.
5.00 0.25 5.00 3.00 1.00 1.00 0.20 0.20 0.45 0.10 q.s.
Procedure: Combine Phase A and homogenise for 5 minutes at 10,000 rpm (Ultra Turrax T25) to disperse microfibrillated cellulose. Combine Phase B and add to Phase A under overhead stirring, stirring until xanthan gum is hydrated. Add Phase C ingredients to the batch one at a time under overhead stirring. Homogenise for 1 minute at 10,000 rpm (Ultra Turrax T25). Adjust pH with Phase D to pH 5.00 – 5.30
This rejuvenating serum is made without emulsifiers, utilising microfibrillated cellulose to stabilise the oil-in-water system without thickening, imparting a fresh skin feel while moisturising dry skin.
PERSONAL CARE April 2025
8. Gloor M et al. O/W Emulsions compromise the stratum corneum barrier and improve drug penetration. Die Pharmazie - An International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences. 2003; Volume 58, Number 10, pp. 709-715(7)
9. Liu Y. Dissertation. 10. Bárány E et al. Unexpected skin barrier influence from nonionic emulsifiers. International Journal of Pharmaceutics. 2000; Volume 195, Issues 1–2, pp. 89-195
11. Systematic investigation of factors, such as the impact of emulsifiers, which influence the measurement of skin barrier integrity by in-vitro trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). International Journal of Pharmaceutics. 2023, Volume 638, 122930
12. Liu Y et al. Topically applied lipid-containing emulsions based on PEGylated emulsifiers: Formulation, characterization, and evaluation of their impact on skin properties ex vivo and in vivo. International Journal of Pharmaceutics. 2022; Volume 626, 122202
13. Liu Y et al. Systematic Investigation of the Effect of Non-Ionic Emulsifiers on Skin by Confocal Raman Spectroscopy—A Comprehensive Lipid Analysis. Pharmaceutics. 2020, 12(3), 223
14. Future Market Insights. Global Emulsifier- Free Skincare Market Set for Remarkable Growth, Projected to Reach USD 3.2 Billion by 2034. November 2024.
https://www.morningstar.com/news/ accesswire/939141msn/global-emulsifier- free-skincare-market-set-for-remarkable- growth-projected-to-reach-usd-32-billion- by-2034-future-market-insights-inc
15. Costa C et al. Emulsion Formation and Stabilization by Biomolecules: The Leading Role of Cellulose. Polymers (Basel). 2019; Sep 26;11(10):1570.
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih. gov/articles/PMC6835308/
16. Nurhadi B et al. Application of Pickering emulsion with microcrystalline cellulose in vitamin C double emulsion process with spray drying technology. CyTA - Journal of Food. 2023; Volume 21, Issue 1
17. McClements DJ et al. Recent Advances in the Utilization of Natural Emulsifiers to Form and Stabilize Emulsions. Annual Review of Food Science and Technology. 2017; Volume 8; 205-236
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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