Volume 26 Issue 4
CONTENTS
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Editor’s Comment News
20 Cover Story:Ashland 127 Formulations
FEATURES
14 Coming to market At PCHi 2025 in Guangzhou, China, editor Tim Probert moderated a panel discussion about product development between Provital president Ricard Armengol; Evonik global product development manager Christian Bellacanzone; LucasMeyer Cosmetics global R&D director Mathilde Frechet; and Gattefossé actives marketing leader Laurie Canel
18 Formulation Lab: sun care in the spotlight RX Global previews the long-awaited schedule for this month’s Formulation Lab, which is partnered by Personal Care Global magazine, at in-cosmetics Global 2025 in Amsterdam, the Netherlands
24 Skin microbiome: listening to the microbial symphony When it comes to the skin microbiome, it is important to consider all the microorganisms and interactions between them. New technologies have overshadowed and replaced traditional in vitro cultivation for identifying microorganisms, as Gobiotics by Sweetch explains
29 Skin friendly solution for ‘sunxiety’ Nagase Viita describes an enzymatically- manufactured ascorbyl glucoside, which offers a holistic approach to sun care for healthier looking skin, empowering people to enjoy the benefits of sunlight with confidence
35 Diatoms: the ocean’s microscopic armour Swedish Algae Factory has designed a natural and sustainable personal care ingredient derived from microalgae. The ingredient has five distinct scientific-backed claims for multifunctional skin care
43 Upcycled maté tea for healthy ageing Rahn describes a maté extract rich in polyphenols, caffeine and rutin, which improves skin microcirculation, skin oxygen supply, hydration, and firmness and elasticity, contributing to a youthful appearance
48 A natural shield against modern pollution KLK Oleo investigates the protective effects of DavosLife E3 Tocotrienols against blue light exposure in murine melanoma B16-F1 cells
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53 Why skin care is the new sun care - and vice versa Croda Beauty Actives describes a 100% natural-based adaptive active ingredient, which cocoons the melanocyte to preserve skin’s sun capital, offers a cosmetic solution to fade both white and dark spots
59 Investigative methods dedicated to axilla skin DermaProof Asia presents the rationale behind the rigorous evaluation of the cosmetic or aesthetic treatments for the axilla, focusing on in vivo test methods, which are the most suitable options in the perspective of gathering evidence to support claims
65 Microfibrillated cellulose: stability without viscosity Use of microfibrillated cellulose and its derivatives to stabilise oil-in-water systems can offer benefits over traditional emulsifiers, as Sappi explains
71 Natural marine ceramide for skin barrier MC Actives has developed Oceamides, said to be the first natural marine ceramide from phytoplankton. This innovative ceramide strengthens the skin’s barrier, enhancing its integrity, protection and regeneration
78 Jojoba oil: from an emollient to an active Jojoba Valley highlights the results of studies that demonstrate the contribution of Jojoba oil in wound healing, anti-viral capability, improving skin texture, volume and viability
83 Cellular senescence: the age of longevity Clinical studies have demonstrates the efficacy of a new plant extract from Lysimachia christinae to preserve skin vitality and resilience, in line with the paradigm of pro-longevity in beauty, as BASF explains
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88 Apple cider vinegar and lemons for healthy hair? Innospec explores low pH formulations that help to maintain hair hydration by improving moisture retention and preserving the structural integrity of the hair fibres, By maintaining a closed cuticle to promote moisture retention, acidic shampoos help extend the life of hair dye and improve the overall health of colour-treated hair
95 Dermocosmetic with multifunctional vitamins Japanese company Resonac show how the vitamin derivatives TPNa and APPS have the potential to become so-called hero ingredients to formulate multifunctional dermocosmetics
101 Combatting ageing with Ayurvedic science Yurvani says its Ayurvedic blend sets a new benchmark in natural anti-ageing skin care, with clinically proven benefits, ethical sourcing, and environmental responsibility
106 ‘No tears’ testing for cosmetic products Dermatest describes the ‘No Tears’ testing method to assess irritation potential, providing reliable, quantitative safety evaluations for cosmetics
113 Sustainable active for stimulating skin healing Natura-Tec has developed a biotech ingredient from microalgae and superfruits to offer a comprehensive and effective approach to skin repair, protection, and regeneration
119 A guide to rawmaterial certification French organic certification organization Ecocert presents some insights into raw material certification challenges and benefits for cosmetic products
124 Comprehensive approach to healthy ageing Barentz unveils the Skin’telligent Beauty Collection of ten formulations, each composed of at least 95% ingredients of natural origin, designed to help the skin express its full potential
April 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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