78 NATURAL INGREDIENTS
Jojoba oil: from an emollient to an active
Ido Frank – Jojoba Valley
Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis) oil has been a gold standard in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries for many years. The oil, which is actually a liquid wax by chemical classification, started gaining popularity after scientists found that its composition is very similar to the sperm whale fat that was widely used in cosmetics applications and was banned in the 1970s. Jojoba plantations can be found in semi-
arid to arid climates around the world. Jojoba can be found as a crop, globally, from Latin America, US, Israel and all the way to Australia. Israel is the largest grower and producer
of Jojoba, with production capacity of about 50% of the total world consumption. Jojoba Valley, a leading Israeli producer of jojoba oil is offering various grades of jojoba oil (golden/colourless, conventional/organic), jojoba butter, squalene-based jojoba butter, jojoba wax and jojoba- enriched silicone alternatives. The seeds, that contain 45-50%
oil content (Figure 1), are collected during the season (September- October in the northern hemisphere) and the oil is usually produced by cold pressing technique. Jojoba seed yield varies and is dependent on various factors like geographic location, climate, variety and other factors. In general, the yield can be from 1000 to 3500 kilogrammes per hectare. Being a liquid wax by definition, jojoba oil composition is completely different to
Figure 1: Jojoba seeds
the composition
of most other oils used in the cosmetics
industry. It is made of
about 97% wax esters. The unique molecular structure of the oil consists of C36–C46 esters, formed mainly by C16- C24 saturated and monounsaturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols.
Its unique composition makes the oil very
stable and it does not oxidize easily. This attribute supports a shelf life of three years and even more, for the oil. One of the main reasons for the effectiveness of the oil is its resemblance to the human glandular sebum (Figure 2). This property makes it the perfect oil for applications intended for the treatment and improvement of oily skin.
Jojoba as an ingredient for cosmetics applications Until recently, jojoba oil was known and used mainly for its emollient attributes. It is one of the most popular oils in the cosmetic industry and also one of the most studied ones. The reasons for its popularity in cosmetics applications, to name a few, are its silky feel on the skin, quick absorption in the skin, its faint odour and of course its superb emollient attributes. It is also known as a beneficial agent for
Figure 2: Comparison between the structure of jojoba oil and human skin oil PERSONAL CARE April 2025
antioxidation, anti-acne and antipsoriasis, antifungal, antipyretic, analgesic, and anti- hyperglycemia activities. Jojoba oil is used in almost any type of cosmetic application, like skin care, hair care, baby care, sun care, colour cosmetics and others. In spite of the relatively high number of studies that were published about it in the past, jojoba oil is still regarded today, mainly as a sensory agent, rather than as an active.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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