88 HAIR CARE


Apple cider vinegar and lemons for healthy hair?


Susan Pye, Heather Clarkson - Innospec


Citrus fruits and natural fruit extracts have been used in hair cleansing for as long as records have been around. Claims, such as moisturising, restoring strength, shine and healthy hair have typically been associated with these natural extracts.


These traditions and wash habits have stood


the test of time, but is there any truth in these long-standing practices? Well, it turns out there is! In this article, we explore the science behind the mythology. The science behind hair care products,


particularly low pH acid shampoos, is rooted in the interaction between hair fibres. Citric, ascorbic and tartaric acids are just some of the organic acids commonly found in fruits, wine and natural fruit extracts. These organic acids are added to shampoos


to lower the pH. However, there is an abundance of scientific literature supporting additional benefits for shampoos with a pH range of 4.0-5.0, including moisturisation and enhancing the strength of the hair fibre benefits. Here we look at sulphate free, sustainable,


and environmentally friendly ingredients that are stable, effective, and compatible with


PERSONAL CARE April 2025


other organic acids to create low pH shampoo formulations. Here we detail surfactant choices and give a practical example of how to formulate a low pH colour retention shampoo. In this article, we show the approach


to manufacturing clear, stable and viscous formulations and the benefits of other ingredients in those formulations to prevent colour loss from hair and to help consumers to retain their permanent and semi-permanent colour.


The pages of history Hair plays an integral role in the way human beings represent themselves. The expression of beauty through hairstyles has been a long- standing trend throughout human history.1,2


As


far back as ancient times, people would use natural extracts and resources for health care and cosmetic purposes including cleansing, styling, colouring, repairing, and protecting their hair Interestingly, there are many plants and


fruit extracts having beneficial effects on hair and being commonly used in shampoos.3


The


importance of citric fruit such as lemons and lime in hair care is quoted throughout history, with organic fruit acid claiming to offer many


properties and advantages during the washing and rinsing ritual.4


Human hair structure Hair is composed of keratinized proteins that form a protective layer called the cuticle, which plays a crucial role in moisture retention, protection against environmental stressors, and overall hair appearance. From the moment a human hair emerges


from the scalp it is exposed to many potentially damaging insults, from basic daily washing, combing and exposure to UV light to harsher, cosmetic, chemical treatments (bleaching, perming, straightening,) as well as heat treatments such as blow drying and flat ironing. Shampoos are a fundamental part of daily


hair care, and their pH plays a critical role in hair health. In recent times, hair care cosmetic formulation and technologies have focused attention on pH and the effects of carboxylic acids on hair. These effects are becoming better recognized and products claiming pH benefits are finding their way onto shelves. The pH of shampoos influences the cuticle’s behaviour. Low pH shampoos help to maintain


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