74 MARINE INGREDIENTS
120 110 100 90 80 70 60 50
Damaged Skin ■
Damaged skin+marine cermide cream 0.5% ■ Damaged skin+Placebo cream ■ Healthy skin ■
0 20 40 60 80 Time (hours)
Figure 7: Effect of the marine ceramide at 0.5% and placebo creams on a damaged 3D human epidermis. Replicates=6. RES: Resaruzin Dye
actives were formulated in cream and assessed in a hemifacial study for four weeks (D28) to check their skin biomechanical enhancement efficacy at a concentration of 0.5%. Skin firmness was calculated as the inverse
of the maximum deformation. As these values increase, less deformation shows the skin under pressure. It is an indicator of skin resistance to external mechanical forces, correlating with skin’s structural integrity. In this study, the marine ceramide
increased skin firmness by 14% while the increase using the synthetic ceramide NP was 9%, proving that the marine ceramide ingredient can substitute synthetic ceramide NP to enhance skin structural integrity providing the skin with more firmness in four weeks. Following several cycles of skin suction
and relaxation, skin fatigue was determined. As the value increases, the ability of the skin to return to its original state diminishes. This is highly related with the anti-ageing effect and skin resilience. The marine ceramide ingredient reduced fatigue by 22%, similar result to that obtained with the synthetic ceramide NP (21%). In this case, both ceramides (natural and
synthetic) produced similar decrease in skin fatigue, proving that the marine ceramide is an alternative to synthetic ceramide NP to reduce age-skin signs related to skin fatigue.
Conclusion The marine ceramide contains ceramides NP and NS and other molecules including lipids extracted from the microalga Nannochloropsis oculata with a high-performance technical extraction that preserves the naturalness of marine ceramides, under a sustainable downstream process approach. This ingredient based on ceramide NP and NS has the advantage that it can be formulated at low temperatures, being added in the aqueous phase of the production process, with a 100% natural origin content (ISO 16128). The marine ingredient is easy to formulate
together with other natural ingredients for different applications: body care, skin creams and serums, facial mists focused on the marketing claim of the skin barrier function. The ingredient will increase skin barrier
PERSONAL CARE April 2025
Figure 8: Lipid anti-alteration produced by the marine ceramide at 1% compared to negative control. Replicates=3. Pval<0.05
integrity, resistance, protection, regeneration, and cover the claims of anti-ageing by increasing skin firmness and reducing skin fatigue.
2020;97(1):2–8 PC
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