ANTI-AGEING In addition, Ilex Extract was able to reduce


wrinkles, particularly in the crow’s feet area, where a 37.2% decrease was observed (not shown). This significant reduction in wrinkle depth and appearance is attributed to the enhanced skin elasticity and firmness, as well as the improved hydration levels facilitated by Ilex Extract. The active compounds in the ingredient, particularly caffeine and polyphenols, are known to stimulate collagen production and improve skin structure, leading to a smoother and more youthful appearance. The immediate effect study on the Chinese


study panel revealed that some of the above measured improvements were already detectable after a single application and lasted for at least 24 hours. After 30 minutes, a significant 10% reduction in skin redness (not shown) was observed as well as a significant 67% increase in hydration and a 12.5% decrease in transepidermal water loss. These effects were all still significant after 24 hours. Underlining a holistic activity profile, Ilex


Extract was capable of increasing skin gloss as well. A significant improvement by 18% was found after 30 minutes, still being significant after 24 hours (Figure 6). In vitro studies provided further insights


into the cellular mechanisms of Ilex Extract. A notable finding was the 25.8% increase in ceramide production (Figure 7), which plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin’s barrier function and hydration. Ceramides are essential lipids that help


retain moisture and protect the skin from environmental aggressors.5


The increase in


ceramide levels suggests that Ilex Extract not only enhances hydration but also strengthens the skin’s natural defence mechanisms. Additionally, the active ingredient


demonstrated significant mitochondrial protection, as evidenced by the reduced accumulation of PINK1 following UV-A irradiation (Figure 8). PINK1 is a marker of mitochondrial stress, and its reduction indicates that Ilex Extract helps protect the mitochondria from


D0 IMPROVEMENT IN FIRMNESS IMPROVEMENT IN ELASTICITY Placebo ■ Ilex Extract 0.01% ■


20 15 10 5 0


* *** p=0.06 D14 D28


30 25 20 15 10 5 0


* *** * *** *


45


D14 Figure 4: Ilex Extract increases firmness (left panel) and elasticity (right panel) IMPROVEMENT IN SKIN HYDRATION


40 30 20 10 0


* *** -5 *


-10 -15


D14 D28 -20 D14 D28 Mean + SEM; n = 25/27; *= p<0.05 ***=p<0.001


Figure 5: Ilex Extract creates lasting skin hydration (left) and improves the skin barrier (right) after a single application


DO 30MIN D1 0 REDUCTION IN TEWL Placebo ■ Ilex Extract 0.01% ■


D28 Mean + SEM; n = 25/27; *= p<0.05 ***=p<0.001


Figure 6: Ilex Extract increases skin gloss after a single application. VISIA-CR images in the visible channel show a decent increase in skin gloss after 30 minutes and 1 day. #4, female, age 46 years. Ilex Paraguariensis Extract 1%


www.personalcaremagazine.com April 2025 PERSONAL CARE


Relative to untreated control


Relative to untreated control


Relative to untreated control


Relative to untreated control


*


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100  |  Page 101  |  Page 102  |  Page 103  |  Page 104  |  Page 105  |  Page 106  |  Page 107  |  Page 108  |  Page 109  |  Page 110  |  Page 111  |  Page 112  |  Page 113  |  Page 114  |  Page 115  |  Page 116  |  Page 117  |  Page 118  |  Page 119  |  Page 120  |  Page 121  |  Page 122  |  Page 123  |  Page 124  |  Page 125  |  Page 126  |  Page 127  |  Page 128  |  Page 129  |  Page 130  |  Page 131  |  Page 132