DERMOCOSMETICS
Dermocosmetic with multifunctional vitamins
Yuko Saeki, Sae Katsube, Eiko Kato - Resonac
Dermocosmetics merges two medical specialties: cosmetics and dermatology. In recent years, individuals have become more concerned about their appearance, regardless of gender, as it enhances their self-esteem. As a result, demand has increased for
cosmetic products that help protect and rejuvenate the skin, reducing the appearance of ageing, wrinkles, acne, and fine lines. Several factors drive the demand for dermocosmetic products, including exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays, pollution, free radicals, stress, and dietary habits that increase the breakdown of skin collagen and elastin. Moreover, rising concerns regarding skin and
hair health have led to an increased demand for safer products with scientifically proven efficiency.
How we address the demand? Dermocosmetic skin care products contain active ingredients that effectively target specific skin conditions. These products are created using multiple advanced pharmaceutical ingredients designed to address different concerns and provide a comprehensive approach for treating skin disorders and issues. Among these, vitamins such as ascorbic
acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E), and their derivatives are generally very popular and trusted for their safety and efficacy. However, vitamins, especially vitamin C and E, are chemically unstable and difficult to deliver inside the skin, where they exert their function as bioactive compounds. Vitamin derivatives were designed to
address these difficulties, exhibiting chemically stable and skin-permeable amphiphilic properties (Figure 1). In addition, owing to their strong antioxidant properties, vitamin derivatives play a variety of roles in preventing skin ageing, including wrinkles, dark spots, and dryness. As such, we denote them as ‘multifunctional’ actives, especially for dermocosmetic products.
Sodium tocopheryl phosphate (TPNa): A water-soluble vitamin E derivative Vitamin E is one of the most important vitamins used in cosmetics owing to its strong antioxidative properties. Because it is easily oxidized and quickly loses its reductive activity, stable derivatives, such as tocopherol acetate (TAc), have been widely used as antioxidants.
www.personalcaremagazine.com TPNa is the water-soluble powdered form of
vitamin E. The oxygen-sensitive hydroxyl group of tocopherol can be chemically modified to be protected by a phosphoryl group. Owing to its amphiphilic (water- and oil-friendly) properties, TPNa can penetrate the skin more deeply than other oily tocopherol derivatives, such as TAc. In terms of cosmetic formulations, TPNa is innovative not only for its biological function on issues of the skin but also for its capacity for use in aqueous formulations thanks to its hydrophilic properties. Thus, it can be used as an additional
ingredient in wide variety of formulas, such as watery lotions, gel creams, and oil-based creams. Moreover, although vitamin E derivatives such as TAc are usually applied only at low concentrations (i.e., 0.1–0.5%), TPNa is easily soluble at 2%, even in an aqueous formula, which is a reasonable amount to produce an improvement in skin problems. In our experiment, the skin penetration
ability of TPNa in the three-dimensional skin model was higher than that of TAc, which was retained in the stratum corneum because of its oil-friendliness (data not shown). Furthermore, penetrated TPNa is readily converted to active
tocopherols and hydrolyzed by phosphatase in the skin, whereas TAc cannot be detected even 24 hours after application. As TPNa can deliver high concentrations of tocopherols into the skin, it has been found to exert novel effects on signs of ageing around the eyes, including fine lines and dark circles.1, 2
Trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate (APPS): A penetrative vitamin C derivative Do you think a high concentration of vitamin C is effective? Although vitamin C has many beneficial dermal properties, it is very unstable in formula and on the skin surface due to oxidative decomposition. Moreover, the presence of sebum and intracellular lipids hinders the penetration of vitamin C into the layers of the skin, which suggests vitamin C does not perform as well in the skin as would be expected based on its concentration in formulation. To address this, trisodium ascorbyl
6-palmitate 2-phosphate (APPS), a highly skin- penetrative and effective amphiphilic derivative, was developed. In this study, the cosmeceutical properties of APPS were assessed with respect to anti-acne and anti-ageing action.
April 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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