98 MARINE INGREDIENTS
■ Antioxidant action: Exposome and life- style balancing, natural skin defence boosting, anti-pollution & detox treatment. ■ Whitening properties: Brightening & lightening treatment, skin tone evener, spot fading treatment For the benthic holobiont bioactive, the key
benefits are: ■ Prebiotic action: Microbiota balance, natural skin defence boosting, preventing & repairing acne lesions & redness ■ Postbiotic action: Lifting effect, skin shine reduction As examples, Tables 2 and 3 show the
formulation of a moisturising, lifting, brightness and even tone cream and a microbiota balance maskne repair and regulator serum.
Conclusions The holobiont concept unifies the host- microbiota interaction and can help us to integrate the systemic point of view to find new solutions and offer new multi-functional products, for the benefit of our skin and its microbiota. Holobiont extracts are a unique natural source of molecules for the production of multifunctional ingredients with biotic effects that have a systemic impact on the health and healthy appearance of the skin. Phycoskin® actives are a new generation of
cosmetic ingredients based on high added value marine extracts. PSK One provides a moisturising lift against the effects of exposure and also reduces pigmentation levels by balancing skin tone and increasing radiance. Synbiötik PSK provides a prebiotic effect, increasing the growth of beneficial bacteria in the skin’s microbiota and postbiotic effects, restoring the skin’s balance: reducing sebum production and lesions in acne- prone skin.
Figure 6: In vivo study of Synbiötik PSK Note - Comparative values of moisture (A) & sebum elasticity (B) index & picture of a volunteer after 28 days using Synbiötik PSK at 1%
twice daily
TABLE 2: MOISTURISING, LIFTING, BRIGHTNESS & EVEN TONE CREAM WITH PHYCÖSKIN ONE Phase
Ingredients A Water PC
References: 1. Dittami SM, Arboleda E, Auguet J-C, Bigalke A, Briand E, Cárdenas P, Cardini U, Decelle J, Engelen AH, Eveillard D, Gachon CMM, Griffiths SM, Harder T, Kayal E, Kazamia E, Lallier FH, Medina M, Marzinelli EM, Morganti TM, Not, F. A community perspective on the concept of marine holobionts: Current status, challenges, & future directions. Peer. J. 2021. 9(e10911), e10911.
https://doi.org/10.7717/peerj.10911
2. Maguire M, Maguire G. The role of microbiota, probiotics & prebiotics in skin health. Archives of Dermatological Research. 2017. 309(6), 411–421.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s00403-017-1750-3
3. Seymour JR, Amin SA, Raina J-B, Stocker R. Zooming in on the phycosphere: The ecological interface for phytoplankton– bacteria relationships. Nature Microbiology. 2017. 2(7);17065.
https://doi.org/10.1038/ nmicrobiol.2017.65
4. Rotter A, Barbier M, Bertoni F, Bones AM, Cancela ML, Carlsson J, Carvalho MF, Cegłowska M, Chirivella-Martorell J, Conk Dalay M, Cueto M, Dailianis T, Deniz, I, Díaz-Marrero AR, Drakulovic D, Dubnika A, Edwards C, Einarsson H, Erdoğan A, Vasquez, MI. The essentials of marine biotechnology. Frontiers in Marine Science. 2021. 8.
https://doi.org/10.3389/ fmars.2021.629629
PERSONAL CARE April 2022 Glycerin Agar-agar Pentano-1,2-diol
3-(2-ethylhexyloxy) propane-1,2-diol
B
Sunflower seed oil Gliceril stearato Vitamin E
C PSK One D Fragance
INCI Aqua
Glycerin Agar
Pentylene glycol Ethylhexylglycerin
Helianthus annuus seed oil Glyceryl stearate Tocopherol
Caprylyl capryl glucoside, water, helianthus annuus, seed oil, plankton extract, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, tocopherol
Parfum A
70.00 60.00 50.00 40.00 30.00 20.00 10.00 0.00
+68% moisture ** ** * *
45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
Before After
■ Synbiötik PSK 1% ■ After *p<0.05, **p<0.005, Kruskall-Wallis test
T0 T28 B -37% sebum * * ** Before After
■ Synbiötik PSK 1% ■ After *p<0.05, **p<0.005, Kruskall-Wallis test
*
% w/w
q.s. 100 10 1.5
0.85 0.15 18
5
0.3 1
0.5
Procedure: Stir Phase A at 75°C until it forms a homogeneous mixture. Stir Phase B at 75°C until it forms a homogeneous mixture. Disperse Phase B into Phase A and emulsify using homogeniser until a homogeneous mixture for ten minutes. Cool to room temperature, stirring constantly. Add Phase C at room temperature. Add Phase D to phase A, B and C, and emulsify until for five minutes with 3,400 rpm until it forms a homogeneous mixture.
TABLE 3: MOISTURISING BALANCE MASKNE REPAIR & SEBUM REGULATOR SERUM WITH SYNBIÖTIK PHYCOSKIN
Phase Ingredients A Water
Hydrolysed sodium hyaluronate
B C
Potassium sorbate Sodium benzoate
Synbiötik PSK D Fragance INCI Aqua
Hydrolysed sodium hyaluronate Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate
Caprylyl/capryl glucoside, water, helianthus annuus seed oil, pentylene glycol, plankton extract, ethylhexylglycerin, tocopherol
Parfum Procedure: Homogenise Phase A. Add Phases B, C and D, keep stirring.
www.personalcaremagazine.com % w/w
q.s. 100 1.30 0.5
0.5 1
0.3
Moisture index
Sebum index (%)
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