74 EYE AREA CARE
able to downregulate genes coding for vascular endothelial growth factors, resulting in a reduction of VEGFA and VEGFC, which increase vascular permeability. Bacillus ferment was also shown to
upregulate the CDH5 gene for VE-cadherin 5, a transmembrane protein which is integral to the formation and maintenance of vessels. It reduces their permeability and enhances their cohesion. Endothelial cellular integrity is also
maintained through the improvement of cellular cohesion, resulting in a 33% decrease in permeability. These effects result in a decrease in liquid accumulation, preventing the formation of eye bags (Figure 8). Dark circles are also affected by the
permeability of cells and vessels, particularly when coloured compounds build up in the eye area. Several in tubo tests showed that Bacillus ferment diminishes the accumulation of the coloured blood products, Fe2+
and Bilirubin, by 32% and
34% respectively, as well as melanin by 39% (a similar performance to kojic acid), which helps to reduce the appearance of dark circles (Figure 9). An in vivo study was conducted, in which 20
female volunteers aged 45-65 applied a cream with 3% active ingredient (0.015% Bacillus ferment) around one eye and a placebo around the other, twice daily for 28 days. The ITA° values of the under-eye area were measured, and showed the Bacillus ferment can increase brightness by up to 40% vs T0 in 28 days, with a 16.8% average (Figure 10).
Tight and Bright Eye Serum Both acetyl hexapeptide-8 and Bacillus ferment are water-soluble and are easily incorporated into the water phase of emulsions. Using them in combination allows the formulation to provide 360° eyecare, by reducing signs of ageing and fatigue through several different mechanisms. Tight and Bright Eye Serum is a low
viscosity, oil-in-water emulsion designed for use with brush componentry for hygienic application to skin. Immediately on application, Syncrystal Silk Silver, a synthetic fluorphlogopite based pearlescent pigment, gives a brightening effect while Buhle Manketti seed oil (INCI: Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil) provides a tightening and firming effect as the serum absorbs into skin.12 The long-term benefits of acetyl
hexapeptide-8 and Bacillus ferment can
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0.15%mg/ml Bacillus ferment
Figure 8: Reduction in endothelial cell permeability, measured using FITC-Dextran 10 kDa Fluorescence on human endothelial cells
PERSONAL CARE April 2022
Figure 6: Increase of collagen I (stained in green) in human skin explants after treatment with 1% active ingredient (0.005% Bacillus ferment), Days 0 & 7
21- 18- 15- 12- 9- 6- 3- 0- 21- 18- 15- 12- 9- 6- 3- 0 Height (mm) 1.2 | 1.0 | 0.8 | 0.6 | 0.4 | 0.2 | 0.0 | 0.2 | 0.4 | 0.8 | 5 10 15 20 Width (mm) Height (mm) 1.2 | 1.0 Figure 7: Reduction in wrinkle depth in Volunteer 11, Days 0 & 28
also be further enhanced with the use of the biodegradable film former Baycusan C1000/1 (INCI: Polyurethane-34). This provides a breathable film over skin, which helps to smooth out imperfections and also increases the efficacy of actives, including salicylic acid and ascorbyl glucoside.13,14
Col-Frag Remastered The combination of natural and synthetic materials in this formulation allows it to achieve a high efficacy while still maintaining a high level of naturality. The natural trend, however, is beginning to evolve, and there is high demand for more biotechnological ingredients, which combine sustainable scientific processes with natural materials. Col-Frag Remastered (INCI: Nicotiana
Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh- Polypeptide-47), hereafter benth extract, is a plant-based anti-ageing active that effectively combines synthetic production methods with natural processes. The biotechnological ingredient is made using Lipotrue’s ‘Wild Plants
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0.01%mg/ml kojic acid 0.001%mg/ml Bacillus ferment
Figure 9: Reduction of melanin in human epidermal melanocytes, measured using spectrophotometry
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as Biofactories’ technology, where a protein is transiently expressed in the N. benthamiana plant. N. benthamiana has survived in the wild for
around 750,000 years, easily adapting to changing environmental conditions. It possesses a unique ability to incorporate desired genetic transcripts, allowing for rapid and efficient expression of oligopeptides, polypeptides and proteins. This enables post-translational modifications to be made which increase the efficacy of the ingredient, as well as producing a high purity product which does not contain endotoxins.15 In the case of benth extract, the peptide
fragment transcribed is identical to a fragment of the sequence of human type-1 collagen, and is produced without the use of animal materials, in contrast with traditional bovine or marine collagen sources. The plants are grown sustainably in controlled greenhouses with limited energy consumption and waste, and no use of pesticides. Benth extract has been shown to fight the
signs of ageing by reinforcing integrin-binding motifs and cell-attachment binding sequences,
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