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COVER STORY: ASHLAND
Jasmine to connect skin biology and emotions
Caressense™ biofunctional is a phytofermented extract from fresh and organic jasmine flowers, inspired by research on the connection between skin and emotions and the ‘chemistry of love’. It is developed using the power of a novel sustainable and patented extraction technology: phytofermentology™. Its unique signature composition is rich in bioactive phytonutrients, such as flower peptides and polyphenols. Caressense™ biofunctional can activate the sensors of touch, Piezo1, to release ‘feel-good’ molecules inside the skin and deliver well-ageing and age-defying benefits. It acts on the skin’s sensory system to liberate positive emotions of feeling well and calmness. Caressense™ biofunctional delivers skin with age-relaxing, stronger immunity and a healthy glow effect.
Jasmine, the flower of love Jasmine flower has strong symbolic meanings in Eastern countries such as India or Philippines: love, beauty and sensuality. They are a key element of wedding rituals. As for this inspiring flower, cosmetics have
always been developed to inspire women’s emotions. Along with sensorial marketing, the research into innovative and surprising cosmetic textures has a purpose: to enhance the sensorial attributes of a cream, and to stimulate the senses (smell and touch) to make them feel good and be loyal to a brand. For the first time, Ashland scientists have
developed a bioactive jasmine extract to stimulate the sense of touch biologically and create, through piezo touch sensors, a positive
A
A. Skin morphology B. Oxytocin C. E-cadherin
B
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C
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Control Piezo1 blockage
Piezo1 blockage + Caressense™
Figure 1: Oxytocin expression & e-cadherin blockage in the skin PERSONAL CARE April 2022 100 66 101 April 2022 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●
MANUFACTURE GLOBAL
biofunctional recreates these positive benefits at the skin level with novel well-ageing and anti-ageing benefits.
Love beauty: The new emotional cosmetic trend Good mood and well-feeling trends are growing in all categories, particularly in nutraceuticals and personal care. Mind care is a major growing concern. More consumers are looking for health and wellness solutions, destressing beauty products to support mental and emotional health. Research says that 30% of dermatology patients have emotional disorders. It is not a surprise that psychodermatology is a growing discipline, with an increased number of dedicated psychodermatologists in the world. It has been demonstrated that taking care
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impact on the sensorial biology of the skin connected to emotions. Recent scientific research has evidenced the beneficial effects of positive emotions, such as love, joy and well- being, on biology. Through the development of Caressense™
biofunctional, Ashland scientists aimed to translate these new scientific findings to skin biology and cosmetics. Inspired by the ‘science of love and emotions’, Caressense™
of our well-being through a walk in the forest, going to the spa for a massage or receiving a loving and caring touch from someone we love can improve immunity, reduce stress, increase the production of wellness molecules and ultimately be more positive and self-confident. ‘Love beauty’ is the next trend for a skin that looks healthy, feels and ages better.
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Sustainable from farm to consumer Jasminum grandiflorum is a premium species of jasmine used to develop Caressense™ biofunctional. Grown in the Grasse countryside in Provence in the South-East of France, our jasmine is the one used to create the luxury and expensive absolute of jasmine for the perfume industry. Our producer cultivates it organically, respects the environment with manual cultivation and harvesting, and lets insects and pollinators live in harmony in the fields, which are few kilometers from Ashland’s biofunctionals factory. Ashland respects key commitments for the beauty of the world: the preservation of natural biodiversity, the development of a sustainable supply chain and the promotion of responsible farming practices. The fresh and organic jasmine flowers are minimally processed using a novel sustainable patented technology: phytofermentology™. This is Ashland’s revolutionary new biotechnology process using the plant and its own microbiome as a natural factory. This 100% natural process is a self-fermentation using only the natural plant microbiome (the phytobiome) and without the addition of external ferments. Combined with our Plant Small RNA
technology to maximise the extraction of potent phytomolecules, a unique signature composition is delivered to the skin, rich in jasmine flower
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