72 EYE AREA CARE
Not for your eyes only: High-efficacy actives
Agnieszka Bucholc, Lou Graydon - Aston Chemicals
Eyes are an insight into a person’s life and mind, often giving away what someone is thinking or feeling at any given moment. It is no wonder, then, that the eye area has long been a leading skincare concern among consumers. The global eyecare market is estimated to be worth up to $61.3million in 2020 and considerable annual growth of up to 6.4% is predicted over the next 10 years.1-3 The skin surrounding eyes is thinner than
other areas and is more susceptible to signs of sleep deprivation, stress and ageing. Weakening collagen easily causes wrinkles in this area and damaged blood vessels are more visible, leading to dark circles. Formats such as creams and serums that target
these concerns have been commonplace on beauty shelves for many years, but in recent times the options available have considerably expanded to include masks, sticks and under-eye patches, among others.3
Eyecare products are a staple for
any skin care routine, and can be found across all types of skin care range, from 100% natural to science-driven cosmeceutical brands. The actives used in these products are
imperative to their function, and therefore need to have robust data behind them as well as being from appropriate sources to align with the product messaging. Using cutting edge biotechnological techniques, Aston Chemicals’ partner Lipotrue has developed three eyecare actives from natural and synthetic sources, which help to reduce signs of ageing and sleep deprivation.
iPeptide Consistent lack of sleep disrupts many bodily processes, leading to chronic low-level inflammation, which in turn causes undesirable processes to occur in the skin. For example,
100%
100% 80% 60% 40% 20% 0%
Non-treated 89% 70%
100% 80% 60% 40% 20% 0%
0.5mg/ml melatonin
0.5%mg/ml acetyl hexapeptide-8
Figure 1: Anti-glycation activity after 72 hours (AGEs, %) Note - Glycation induced with sugars
PERSONAL CARE April 2022
higher levels of glucose caused by sleep deprivation lead to increased levels of yellow- brown advanced glycation end-products (AGEs), caused by sugars reacting with proteins. This renders the proteins, such as collagen and elastin, inflexible and unable to perform their usual activities, and consequently leads to a loss of elasticity and increased wrinkles.4 Increased inflammation also leads to lipid peroxidation, increased pigmentation and the formation of permeable microcapillaries, all of which increase the visibility of dark circles.5-6 Melatonin is a hormone which has an
important role in the regulation of the circadian rhythm, a natural process in the body which controls the sleep-wake cycle.7
Its receptor
protein, melatonin receptor 1A (MTNR1A), is vital for maintaining the effects of melatonin, which include sleep, immune and inflammatory response. iPeptide, hereafter referred to as acetyl
hexapeptide-8, is a novel peptide which counteracts the effects of sleep deprivation on eyes, with melatonin-like effects. In vitro testing showed that the expression of the MTNR1A receptor was more than doubled (x2.1) in the presence of 0.01mg/mL acetyl hexapeptide-88. Furthermore, melatonin is a potent
antioxidant that prevents proteins from glycation and peroxidation, and therefore the formation of AGEs and advanced lipoxidation end-products (ALEs). It was found that acetyl hexapeptide-8 has a comparative effect to melatonin, on reducing AGEs and ALEs in vitro. Anti-glycation activity was further confirmed
using treated skin explants (Figures 1 & 2). In ex vivo tests, methylglyoxal (MGO) was used to induce glycation and the effect of pre-treatment
100%
with 1% active ingredient (0.0005% acetyl hexapeptide-8) was assessed. By measuring the surface occupied by carboxymethyl lysine (CML), a marker for AGEs, it was determined that AGE formation was reduced by 73% (Figure 3). In addition, the pre-treatment has shown
that reducing the level of AGEs prevents the loss of skin integrity and elasticity by reducing the degradation of fibrillin-1 by 86% when exposed to MGO. Fibrillin-1 is a glycoprotein which binds to microfibrils and provides structural support to elastic connective tissue. Further factors play a role in the presence
of fatigued eye features, such as pigmentation. Interleukin 33 (IL-33) is an alarmin protein, which is over-expressed in chronic inflammatory conditions such as sleep deprivation. It exhibits a pro-melanogenic effect by increasing the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, consequently boosting the production of melanin. The release of IL-33 leads to the formation of blood microcapillary meshes, increasing vascular stress. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 has been found to
inhibit IL-33 release by 63%, in addition to a 22% decrease in tyrosinase activity. The peptide has also been shown to prevent vascular stress and formation of excessive capillary networks. An in vivo study assessing the effect of acetyl
hexapeptide-8 on the appearance of dark circles was conducted in 22 male volunteers aged 34- 50. Volunteers applied a cream containing 3% active ingredient (0.0015% acetyl hexapeptide-8) for 28 days. In support of the in vitro and ex vivo
tests, under-eye dark circles had reduced in appearance by an average of 12% in just 7 days. These results highlight that acetyl hexapeptide-8 significantly reduces the effects of inflammation
64% 57%
Non-treated
1mg/ml melatonin
0.1%mg/ml acetyl hexapeptide-8
Figure 2: Anti-peroxidation activity after two hours (ALEs, %) Note - Peroxidation induced with oxidising agent
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