LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
23
Living the lifestyle dream with sustainable cosmetics
Clare Goodwin, Technical Sales Director - Infinity Ingredients
The opinions we have and the beliefs we hold all feed into the way we live our lives and how we shop. Often, our values and opinions are shaped from a very early age and can carry through childhood to adulthood. However, these opinions can and do
frequently change. For example, the increased media coverage over the past few years on climate change has led to many consumers changing their shopping and lifestyle habits to become greener and more eco-conscious. This has been further accelerated by the
COP 26 climate change summit, held in Glasgow last year, as well as by the Earthshot prize. This is a new global award for the environment set up by Prince William and David Attenborough to incentivise change to repair our planet. The winner was the Republic of Costa Rica for a scheme that pays local citizens to restore natural ecosystems to revive the rainforest. It has received a £1 million grant to continue the work.
Upcycling waste In the cosmetics industry, consumers’ desire to be greener has translated into a surge in demand for more sustainable, traceable, environmentally friendly, biodegradable, recyclable and upcycled products. Consumers are also becoming more aware that it is not just the packaging that causes an impact on the environment but the overall formulation. Relatively new brands like UpCircle have harnessed the benefits of using waste materials in their products, resulting in impressive sales and loyal following from its consumers. Most of the marketing data published clearly
identifies that it is Generation Z who are the most aware of climate change and are the demographic most motivated to change. Brand identity and green credentials rank highest for this group who want zero waste beauty and they are of course the main age group that sustainable and green brands are targeting. There are an increasing number of materials
for formulators to pick from when it comes to upcycled raw materials. Roelmi HPC offer a range of fruit waters from the waste water of fruit juice, enabling water-free formulations to be created and therefore saving precious water. They also offer waste water from the production of silk clothing for anti-pollution and blue light protection; this is not suitable for vegans but is a waste product nonetheless. It is not just water that can be upcycled - extracts of the bark from felled trees can also be
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used for their protecting, anti-ageing and glow properties. This is an area IFF | Lucas Meyer Cosmetics is continuing to invest in with their Borēaline® range from the Boreal forests of Canada. Upcycling is not just limited to waste
materials; it can also be from materials where the aerial parts of a plant are used. Take for example, Inula helenium, which is used for herbal tea. IBR use the co-products that are not used for tea to provide anti-pollution protection. In addition, date pulp from the food industry has been used in a calming active to help fight rosacea.
Cutting out waste Food waste is, of course, a major concern in today’s society and I am not just talking about the excess purchasing habits of consumers here. It is more the conditioning of consumers from an early age to expect the different types of fruit and vegetables to look a certain way. This in itself causes tonnes of waste every
year by the supermarkets who will not accept a less than perfectly shaped fruit or vegetable. Due to this conditioning, consumers mostly desire a nice, cylindrically shaped carrot, not a wonky misshapen one. Both are totally edible and safe, but the misshaped version is rejected and often sent to landfill. Southern Cross Botanicals take all the lower- grade or misshaped finger lime fruit to produce
their skin exfoliator, Lime PearlTM - another
positive outcome from a negative perception. These are all areas marketing teams need to work hard to shift consumers wants and needs. It is the same, for example, when we talk
about moisturisation, as opacified product will always be perceived, rightly or wrongly as being more moisturising than the exact formulation minus the opacifying agent. The same can be said for foaming products; if a product does not foam, it does not clean as well in the majority of people’s mindsets, but we all know this not to be true.
Green or natural Green products are also perceived by consumers to be better, kinder and milder to the skin. This perception is often but not always correct. Natural can be safer and more beneficial but this is certainly not universal across all products. Take for example the rising trend of using
cannabidiol (CBD) in products to calm skin irritation and sensitivity. Whilst many brands have chosen to steer clear of any potential regulatory issues by using hemp seed oil, there are still a large number of products out there containing CBD, as its health benefits are increasingly reported on various social media platforms. Another alternative to CBD comes from the Brazilian Amazon: copaiba oil, which contains
April 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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