42 NATURALS
0.90 0.80 0.70 0.60 0.50 0.40 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.00
0.66 0.53 0.56
0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1 0
Amaze Nordic Barley Purity 21C Pure Figure 3: Oil absorption of starches
Dry shampoo Dry shampoo is an application in which starch plays a key role. The unique differences in starch granule morphology are magnified in this application since the typical starch inclusion level is quite high, especially when most of the formulation is volatile ingredients, such as ethanol and propellant. Table 1 shows the formulation of a dry
shampoo with a variety of starches. The formulation containing barley seed flour outperformed tapioca starch on gloss/shine and matched it on whitening, feel, ease of brushing, removability and frizz/flyaway. Against a modified maize (INCI Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccincate), it was better on whitening and removability and the same on the other criteria. A sensory evaluation against rice starch found
that barley seed flour outscored it in gloss/shine, whitening, feel and ease of brushing, while the two were comparable in terms of removability and frizz/flyaway. Against a market benchmark containing rice starch treated with cetrimonium chloride, sensory evaluation showed that barley seed flour provides less whitening and a significantly softer feel without any treatment (Figure 5), while matching it on the other criteria.
TABLE 2: NATURAL FACE CREAM FORMULATION Phase
Ingredients INCI
A Deionised Water Water (Aqua) Amaze XT Glycerin
B Dragorin GOC Lanette 16
Dracorin CE Lipex Shea Cetiol LC
Cropure Sweet Almond
C
Citric acid 25% solution
Glycerin
Amaze Nordic Barley or deionised water
Cetyl Alcohol Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Aquaguard 9093 Sodium Benzoate & Sodium Dehydroacetate
Aqua, Citric acid Glycerin
Hordeum Vulgare Seed Flour or Water (Aqua)
PERSONAL CARE April 2022
Dehydroxanthan Gum Glycerin
Glyceryl Oleate Citrate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ingredients Tapioca Pure 0.63 0.57 0.38
Amaze Nordic Barley Figure 4: Friction data of starches
TABLE 1: DRY SHAMPOO FORMULATION Phase A
Ethanol Anhydrous 40-B1 Ligafood MF 2K2
B
Starch (B,C,D,E)3 AP404
INCI
SD Alcohol 40-B (Alcohol Denatured Magnesium Stearate
Hordeum Vulgare Seed Flour / Tapioca Starch / Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate / Rice Starch
Propane (and) Isobutane (and) n-Butane
Procedure: Mix Phase A ingredients in a glass bottle with a magnetic stirrer. Fill in a hairspray bottle, crimp and fill with Phase B’ Suppliers: 1. Pharmco-Aaper 2. Via Farma 3. Nouryon 4. Progas
The performance attributes as highlighted
in the dry shampoo evaluation can also be well featured in other hair care and styling products, like a volumising texture spray. In this product, volume generation is an important attribute to evaluate. An invisible volumising texture spray was
compared directly to a commercial texture spray for volume generation on a mannequin head. The head was parted, inverted, and had each product applied to one side of the head before being allowed to dry. After drying, the heads were righted, brushed out, and then visually assessed for volume generation. From the image on the right (Figure 6), it is evident that the barley seed flour prototype builds noticeable volume.
% w/w 68.70 0.15
0.30 2,.00 4.00
0.75 9.00 2.00 5.00
0.20
0.20 2.70
5.00 Ingredients
Skin care benefit The ‘skinification’ of hair is one of the key haircare trends of this time and therefore it is worth to highlight the benefits of barley seed flour in a sensory panel evaluation of a light natural face cream. The sensory experience on skin is getting very important for hair care products, as experienced when using hair masks, creams or powders. Tests were carried out on a face cream
formulation (Table 2) containing 5% barley seed flour and a control. Sensory panel evaluations found that, in terms of immediate feel, there was a significantly reduced oiliness with the former. There was also improved longer-term gloss,
TABLE 3: FRIZZ CONTROL - SILKY & SOFT HAIR CREAM Phase
INCI
A Deionised Water Amaze XT polymer
B C Water (Aqua) Dehydroxanthan Gum
Glycerol-99.5% (U.S.P.) Glycerin Structure XL starch Lipex Shea Lanette O
D Deionised Water Microcare SB
Citric Acid (20% Solution)
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Cetearyl Alcohol
BRIJ CS20-SO-(MH) Ceteareth-20 Amaze SP Polymer
Sodium Polyitaconate Water (Aqua)
Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate
Amaze Nordic Barley Hordeum Vulgare Seed Flour Citric Acid (and) Water
% w/w 74.55 0.15 1.50
3.00 2.50 1.20
0.90 2.00
10.00 1.00
3.00 0.20
Procedure: Start with weighing the water of Phase A in a glass beaker. Separately, make a slurry of Amaze XT and glycerin and add it slowly to the water under stirring with a propeller stirrer. Add Structure XL slowly under continued stirring. Change then to a paddle stirrer. Weigh in all ingredients of Phase B. Warm up Phase A and B to 75°C. Combine Phases A and B during mixing with a Silversson homogeniser at high speed. After homogenisation, move the formulation back to an overhead paddle stirrer and continue stirring at medium speed. Prepare Phase C, i.e dissolve Amaze SP in water in a separate beaker with a magnetic stirrer. Add Phase C slowly to Phase A+B under stirring with paddle stirrer at medium speed. After cooling down to below 45°C, add Phase D to the formulation during further mixing. Amaze Nordic Barley must be added slowly under stirring. Check the pH value and adjust it further if necessary.
Suppliers: 1. Local 2. Nouryon 3. Textile Chemical/Brenntag 4. AAK 5. BASF 6. Croda 7. Thor 8. Sigma-Aldrich
% w/w 14.00 1.00
5.00 80.00
Purity 21C Pure
Tapioca Pure
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Oil absorption/adsorption (mL/g)
Coefficient of friction
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