HAIR CARE
■ Tannins, phenolic compounds that easily bind to keratin proteins of the hair Other ingredients in Jatropha macrantha
extract include: ■ Proteins, to provide density and protection to the hair structure, balancing hair moisture to keep it healthy and strong. ■ Sugars, which provide a source of energy for proper growth and nutrition of the follicle ■ Phytosterols, which have strong anti- inflammatory and UV-protection effects
Hair anti-ageing It is well known that UV components damage human hair, causing fibre degradation. Hair fibres are made up mainly of fibrous proteins from the keratin family; a minor contribution to the total hair mass derives from melanin, pigments and lipids. UV exposure involves considerable changes in the structure of keratin, including the photo-oxidation of aminoacids, sterol, and fatty acids. This process results in the rupture of sulfur bridges, the decomposition of lipids and a decrease in melanin, as well as numerous micro-molecular lesions. Both UVA (400-315nm) and UVB (315-
280nm) are very harmful to hair. The effects of UVB irradiation can be severe, resulting in the breakdown of disulfide bonds inside the hair fibre and on the surface of the cuticle. UVA irradiation mainly produces free radicals and ROS through interaction with endogenous photosensitisers. Studies have shown that the photo-
oxidation of hair fibre involves the breakage of cysteine-sulfur linkages from proteins, the oxidation of internal lipids and melanin granules, and tryptophan degradation of keratin. Moreover, exposure to sunlight leads to hair decolouration due to melanin oxidation via free radicals. Another consequence of sunlight on hair
is the conversion of cysteine oxidation to cysteic acid, which modifies its mechanical properties after long UV exposure. Shorter radiation induces further undesirable effects, such as a decrease in hydration and increased
79
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
NC
-70% -64.32% * * *
1.25% Jatropha macrantha extract
2.5% Jatropha macrantha extract
control Note: * - Represents statistical significance p<0.001; Negative control - phospholipid mixture
permeability, leading to a loss of shine and colour, as well as an increase in combing resistance.
Thus, it is clear that UV irradiation weakens the structural integrity of the capillary fibre. The lipid and protein fractions play a major role in the structure and integrity of the hair fibre, protecting it against external agents. Therefore, damage to the protein and lipid fractions can help us to evaluate the decomposition of the hair.
The rapid increase in the amount and
type of hair treatment available to consumers (bleaching, dyeing, etc.) has led to a proliferation of hair cosmetics that facilitate the repair and prevent adverse effects on the capillary structure. Various ingredients have been included in cosmetic formulations specially to reduce the adverse effects on hair fibre. The most effective are antioxidants, which
can interrupt radical chain processes, help to repair skin and hair systems, and protect against oxidative damage. For all the above reasons, we sought to assess the hair protein protective activity of Jatropha macrantha extract on UVA-induced oxidative stress after treatment on human hair. 5% and 10% Jatropha macrantha extract was topically applied on Caucasian dark hair tresses. These were irradiated with UVA (11 J/ cm2
), washed and dried. The samples were
processed, and proteins and peptides were quantified through the Bradford colorimetric assay.
The results (Figure 2) showed that UVA
irradiation increased protein degradation by 62.8% compared to the non-irradiated control. Topical treatment with 5 and 10% Jatropha macrantha extract on hair samples, previously to UVA irradiation, displays protective and anti- ageing effects, through significant protection of UVA-induced protein degradation, compared to the untreated control: protein degradation significantly decreased by 31.4% and 63.8%, respectively.
Antioxidant & anti-lipid peroxidation The antioxidation test is a method based on electron transfer, which is used to evaluate the antioxidant potential. The lipid peroxidation assay refers to lipid peroxides that are generated during the oxidation of polyunsaturated fatty acids, their measurement being used as a good marker of the non- enzymatic oxidation of lipids in cell membranes. In these tests, Jatropha macrantha
Figure 5: Test device
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extract was analysed at 1.25%, 2.5% and 5% concentrations. The quantification of the final products of the reaction was carried out by spectrophotometry or fluorimetry, subsequently comparing to the negative and positive control in each case. The results are shown in Figures 3 and 4.
April 2022 PERSONAL CARE
5% Jatropha macrantha extract
Figure 4: Anti-lipoperoxidant capacity of 1.25% & 2.5% Jatropha macrantha extract vs. negative
Peroxidation %
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