SUSTAINABILITY
deodorisation stage. This raw material is called deodorization condensate or acidic oil because it is highly concentrated in olive fatty acid. Therefore, the first step in the extraction of
squalene is an esterification of the fatty acids with glycerol to convert the fatty acids into triglycerides (Figure 2). These compounds, which are heavier than squalene, allow the latter to be concentrated by vacuum distillation. These two consecutive stages lead to a distillate with a high concentration of squalene (80-90%). This concentrate is then subjected to
a hydrogenation step in the presence of a heterogeneous palladium catalyst. Finally, the final obtaining of the olive squalane is carried out only by physical processes: winterisation in order to eliminate the hydrogenated triglycerides; and dewaxing on silica in order to extract the residual waxes and phytosterols. Therefore, this process is mainly physical, as the squalene molecule undergoes only one chemical reaction, hydrogenation. Furthermore, it is interesting to note that the hydrogenation of squalene is very much in line with the most important criteria of green chemistry as defined by Paul Anastas and John-Charles Warner.13 These are atomic economy of 100%; no use
of solvents and toxic substances; the limitation of energy expenditure since the ingredient is obtained from a co-product of olive oils; and the prevention of pollution at source since hydrogenation and purification produce very little waste, the palladium catalyst being systematically recycled. Finally, it should be noted that olive squalane
has always been an ‘upcycled’ ingredient since it is a by-product of olive oil production. Its production is therefore without conflict of use with food and does not involve any mobilisation of arable land intended to be used for human consumption. Similarly, the by-products of the process, in this case the olive oil triglycerides left over from the distillation process, are recovered and recycled as a renewable biofuel. The olive squalane obtained by this process has a purity of more than 92%, the secondary compounds are branched cyclic isomers, very close to the alkanes present in paraffin oils (petrolatum). Therefore, squalane cosmetic experts consider that these compounds have a strong impact on the exceptional sensory properties of olive squalane. Finally, due to its origin and production
process, olive squalane (or sunflower oil) is certified in accordance with the ISO 16128 standard for natural cosmetic ingredients. It is also COSMOS-certified and can therefore be introduced into so-called natural cosmetic formulations.
67
OLIVE ACID OIL (Squalene 5-15 wt%)
Esterification Glycerol
Neutralised Olive Acid Oils
Vacuum distillation
Squalene Concentrate (Squalene 75-90 wt%)
SQUALANE 92% min.
Purification
Dewaxed Squalane
Figure 2: Production process of olive squalane
While squalane underwent a 180° turn in the 1990s with the appearance of plant sources that were much more sustainable and, above all, more respectful of animal welfare than shark squalane, a squalane derived from synthetic biology has appeared recently. The latter is obtained from cane sugar
fermented in the presence of a genetically modified yeast. Its synthesis process also involves relatively complex synthetic chemistry. This squalane belongs to the group of biotech alkanes that are directly derived from synthetic biology, such as hemisqualane and isododecane.
Biobased alkanes from synthetic biology Alkanes derived from synthetic biology all have the following in common. They are obtained from sugar from major sugar crops (sugar cane, beet); they are produced by fermentation in the presence of a yeast (or mould) or a genetically modified bacterium or a mutated enzyme from a genetically modified organism (GMO) that transforms the sugar into an olefinic hydrocarbon; and feature one or more synthetic chemical reactions following fermentation leading to the final alkanes.
Glucose as a raw material for synthetic biology Glucose is a raw material that is currently indispensable for synthetic biology, as it is the essential nutrient for the metabolism of GMOs used in fermentation. It plays the dual role of energy provider and carbon source to produce the desired hydrocarbons. In fact, the sugar used is a food sugar used for industrial purposes. The low relative yield of glucose from
second-generation sources, i.e. from agricultural co-products - wheat straw, wood, maize cob, etc. - and their uncompetitive price compared with glucose from sugar plants, means that they are currently used too
Extraction/Purification Concentration
(sugar beet, sugarcane) Figure 3: Production process of inverted sugar syrup
www.personalcaremagazine.com April 2022 PERSONAL CARE Sugar Plant Sugar Syrup Hydrolysis Sugar Syrup Inverted
little to meet the needs of synthetic biology. It is clear, however, that if second-generation petrol ethanol were to develop in the future, it would become a more environmentally friendly source of fuel for synthetic biology, with no conflict of use with food. Glucose for synthetic biology is currently
produced from sugar plants (Figure 3) or starchy cereals such as maize, wheat and potato. This process is identical to the one used to obtain food sugar syrups. An additional purification process can sometimes be added to retain substances that are poisons for the micro-organisms used in the fermentation stage. Finally, it is important to stress that
a sugar plant such as sugar cane is the result of intensive cultivation with often negative impacts on the preservation of the environment and biodiversity. In Brazil, this crop contributes to deforestation and the poisoning of local populations by pesticides.28,29
Isododecane Isododecane is a petrochemical solvent used in many industrial applications. Its flash point (45°C) classifies it as a volatile organic compound (VOC). Its use in cosmetics in so-called waterproof make-up formulations is based on two properties: it is an excellent solvent for the hydrophobic substances making up the make-up formulations and it has a very high volatility.12 The mixture of isododecane and
hydrophobic substances forms a film of substances that are insoluble in water on the surface of the skin and phanera - eyelashes, hairs, nails - and will therefore resist to the action of water. For the film to be sufficiently resistant, it must be ‘continuous’, i.e. it must not show any surface alterations. The isododecane, by gradually evaporating upon application, allows the formation of a continuous film which then becomes resistant to water.
Total sugars: 60-80% Free glucose: 50-60% Fructose: 10-30%
Winterisation Crude Squalane
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