30 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS


might be considered acceptable. Ultimately experimentation will clarify the optimum ratios required.


Testing A number of tests were performed on the 30g prototype shampoo bars to establish long-term stability and performance characteristics. These looked at humidity testing and performance Shampoo bars, much like syndets and


traditional soaps, are regularly exposed to high humidity and standing water. A climate chamber was used to compare water absorption and any corresponding changes to the bar’s integrity. After two weeks there was a slight softening


to the surface of the bar, consistent with what is found with current syndets and shampoo bars. The inside of the bars remained stable and dry. Ad hoc trials were also performed in a bathroom and shower room environment. The results showed that the long-term stability was at least as good as with traditional soaps and syndets. Initial washing trials were completed to


better understand the performance of the prototype bars. There was some concern that the high levels of fibres used would result in negative characteristics with regards to skin feel, foaming, rinse-out, etc. However, the fibres did not have a negative effect on the foam or the rinse-out and the product washed out easily. There was no discernible residue left on the hair. Once again, having achieved successful


results, we decided to take things further still. Could a bottle of ‘off the shelf’ shampoo be ‘converted’ into a bar using this technology? Trial subjects were asked what their shampoo


of choice was. These were then purchased and, as with previous samples, were blended with fibres, dried, milled and stamped into 30g bars. Encouragingly, all ten different shampoos were processed with ease. These bars were then handed to the trial


subjects for evaluation. They were then asked about bar integrity in the bathroom setting; foaming, skin-feel and hair feel during and after washing. Bar integrity was, again, considered to be good and comparable with soap, syndet and conventional shampoo bars. Performance characteristics were also


generally positive. Whilst, as would be expected, the foam took a little longer to form, it was considered generally better than conventional shampoo bars. Some subjects felt that the foam was creamier than the liquid shampoo version whilst others felt a slight dryness to the foam. There were some slight differences to the skin-feel versus the liquid equivalents but the final result on the hair once dried was felt to be equivalent to the liquid form.


Additional formats Although most of this article has concentrated on shampoo bars, it is clear that other formats are possible using this technology. Shampoo powders and granules are an


obvious choice of format. Shampoos and conditioners, which have been solidified into powders by this technology, can be dissolved quickly again. The result is a liquid, creamy product that could be filled into containers and used as a conventional liquid format. Therefore,


PERSONAL CARE April 2022


Figure 4: Shampoo paper


it would be possible to transfer any kind of formulation into a powder, package it in paper and then transform it, at home, into a liquid. Shampoo tablets are already available on the


market to a limited extent, although the same limitations apply as with conventional shampoo bars. As with shampoo bars, there is the same additional processing requirement. Tabletting processes typically use direct compression, which only requires for a flowable powder to be pressed into a tablet form whereas larger bars are typically produced using either extrusion or hot pour processes. It may be easier to adapt current tabletting


equipment to produce shampoo tablets. Due to the typical ‘dose’ of shampoo required, tablets, which typically contain around 30% active shampoo versus around 20% in a liquid equivalent, need to be of a similar weight or slightly less than a standard shampoo dose - around 5g. Additionally, the tablet would need to disintegrate quickly to work effectively as it will be a single-dose product. JRS has also carried out some trials to enhance dissolution. Using a coarser MCC fibre alongside either


conventional dry surfactants or converted liquid surfactants, as well as a disintegrant and lubricant, it is possible to produce fast-dissolving tablets. It is important to note that fine forms of the surfactant powder tend to result in poor dissolving performance. Coarser grades allow for much faster dissolution. Initial trials have shown there is also potential


to create paper-like ‘shampoo’ films incorporating the aforementioned technology. Using sodium alginate as a film-former in conjunction with fibres loaded with surfactants, the resultant mixture was poured onto a flat surface and dried. The film produced resembled blotting paper; it foams and dissolves instantly on contact with water. A good deal more experimentation is required to produce a genuine finished product but initial trials were positive (Figure 4).


Further work At the time of writing JRS has begun experimenting with conditioning bars and powders as well as moisture bars. Each different product type requires a different set of considerations when looking to produce


a dry bar. Conditioners typically have lower active content and, consequently, higher water content. Are all the solids in liquid conditioners functional with regards to the product’s conditioning performance? Ultimately, are there materials that could be left out? Likewise with moisture bars: the name


suggests a moisturising cream or lotion in bar form. This would suggest an emulsifiable oil phase, essentially, an emulsion without the water content which, when applied to wet skin, blooms to create an instant lotion effect. It is clear that to develop such formulations


will require the formulator to go back to first principles to build a product, understanding both the end function of the bar and the functional ingredient required and, equally important, not required. Shampoo bars themselves do not need the additional salt or thickeners that their liquid counterparts often require.


Conclusion The personal care industry is currently undergoing a seismic shift away from product formats that are no longer seen as sustainable. A more considered approach is required where every aspect of the supply chain: raw materials, packaging, logistics and consumer use habits are being challenged. A technology has now been developed that opens up the potential for a whole range of existing cosmetic ingredients and formulations to be available in solid, concentrated formats. Established liquid brands might be offered as solid and concentrated bars, tablets or powders without any loss in performance. Natural ingredients or surfactants, such as glucosides, can be transferred into solid concentrates and ultimately, a broader range of fully biodegradable, sustainable and natural materials is possible. This new ‘solidification’ technology helps


reduce the environmental impact in a number of key areas. Solid formats not only help by reducing water consumption and freight requirements but also minimise raw material usage and allow for more environmentally sound packaging solutions. The future is bright, the future is solid!


PC www.personalcaremagazine.com


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100  |  Page 101  |  Page 102  |  Page 103  |  Page 104  |  Page 105  |  Page 106  |  Page 107  |  Page 108  |  Page 109  |  Page 110  |  Page 111  |  Page 112  |  Page 113  |  Page 114  |  Page 115  |  Page 116