ANTI-AGEING
How to prove pro-ageing claims in vivo
Anne Charpentier, CEO - Skinobs
Claims of personal care evolve following trends and various innovations in the field of the active ingredient development, the finished product formulation and the way both are evaluated, demonstrating their performance. Since the mid-2010s, the cosmetics industry has been gradually leaving the era of anti-ageing behind. Today, most consumers are more in the mood for a ‘well ageing’, ‘slow ageing’ or ‘pro-ageing’ approach. The philosophy of the ‘pro-ageing’
movement has sought to remove all ‘anti’ claims because, according to this concept, women over 50 are not interested in looking younger; they want to look healthy and be honest about their age. Some brands have used the idea of improving the appearance of skin quality and restoring skin comfort. A new vocabulary of renewal, regeneration, plumpness, and ‘glow’ now dominates the language of the beauty industry. Increasingly inclusive beauty rituals give the opportunity for a pause, counterbalancing stressful, tiring and anxious lifestyles and reducing the deleterious effects of a life that attacks the skin through internal mechanisms or a harmful environment. Eliminate toxins, oxygenate the body, take care of oneself to maintain the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion and a good mood. Beauty then becomes more integrative, it will universalise well-being, the silhouette, sleep quality and lifestyle, resulting in a different look. Consumers are going to take action
to preserve their tonicity, elegance and silhouette. In this quest for mindful beauty radiance, what women expect from cosmetics is emotional pleasure and sensoriality. It is all about supporting the ageing process rather than fighting the signs of ageing, with skincare products supporting a ’pro-longevity’ and enhancing.
Substantiating anti-ageing claims One great opportunity cosmetics brands have to analyse pro-ageing performance is to clinically demonstrate these effects via biometrological and scientific measures. The conduct of efficacy studies refers to the regulations in each world zone and sometimes each country. In the EU, the reference is the European
Cosmetics Regulations (1223/2009 and 655/2013), principally through the product
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information file (PIF). For a claim to be compliant, it must conform to all six common criteria: legal compliance, truthfulness, evidential support, honesty, fairness and informed decision-making. Furthermore, the definition of a claim is broad, and includes text, names, trademarks, pictures, figures and other signs (such as logos) that convey, explicitly or implicitly, product functions or characteristics.
Without specific norms (except for sun
care) brands can follow guidelines for human testing, such as EEMCO and Good Clinical Practice. These scientific objectivation
processes protect the consumer from misleading claims and preserve the credibility of the cosmetic industry.
Evaluation of anti-ageing perceptions In beauty, ageing no longer appears to be directly associated with age but more with the ‘feeling of age’. Consumers and personal care brands agree that there will be improvements in terms of the perceived benefits on well-being rather than actual rejuvenation. It has never been more important in this time of a complex pandemic than to age well. To objective such ‘sensory’ efficacy, more and more cosmetics brands use the invaluable analyse of the feeling and the sensation perceived. Since the 2010s, with the contribution
of neuroscience and new technologies, it has been a question of scientifically and dynamically evaluating the psychic and physiological influence of emotions associated with the application of a cosmetic product and consequently the actions that result from it. The application of a cosmetic as a sensory experience is a stimulus that modifies the heart rate, facial expressions and skin surface activity, in a multi-dimensional cognitive, behavioural and physiological process.
April 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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