96 MARINE INGREDIENTS
establishing daily skin care routines. In this sense, the use of natural products with multi-functional effects is essential to protect the skin tissue and our microbiota.
A novel solution Holobiont extracts are unique natural source - they are the essence of an entire ecosystem. The secondary metabolites produced by the phytoplankton-microbiota interaction are released to the phycosphere. These molecules, in addition to having a nutritional function, have shared functional effects as antioxidants, photoprotectors, regenerants, moisturisers, or antibiotics against pathogenic organisms to maintain the integrity of the holobiont. Fortunately, many of them are present in all living things and can therefore be functional if they are part of a bioactive ingredient. This constitutes a paradigm shift from
traditional monospecific microbial extracts to multi-species microbial extracts. Holobionts offer the molecular richness of each species and the extracellular molecules resulting from the interaction between the host and its microbiota (Figure 3). By respecting the integrity of holobiont
extracts, it is possible to preserve this molecular richness to obtain multiple biotic effects in multi-functional dermo-cosmetic products: nourishing and protective substances for skin tissue, molecules with a prebiotic effect, to re- establish the balance of the microbiota (eubiosis) and molecules with a postbiotic effect. Together, these molecules can exert a synergistic beneficial effect with a systemic impact on the health and healthy appearance of the skin. In this new era of skin health and care, there
is a growing awareness, especially among young consumers, about the use of new, value-added products with a focus on skin microbiome and, of course, microbiome-friendly. The impact of this new claim, which is constantly evolving, opens up a great opportunity for cosmetic brands that are committed to new ingredients to find a blue ocean in the market.
Blue tech to produce marine holobiont Based on its knowledge of phytoplankton- microbiota interactions, European biotechnology company Microalgae Solutions
Figure 2: Phytoplankton holobiont
(MAS) has discovered the functional mechanisms of marine holobionts to obtain extracts of unique molecular richness. Inspired by nature and using its own
technology, Phycosphere Biodynamic® Technology (PBT), MAS obtains phytoplankton holobiont extracts. PBT is a patented, environmentally friendly process that uses less energy and water than other microalgae production systems. The technology combines bioengineering and green lab-grown techniques to biomimic the marine micro- ecosystem where holobionts live. By providing the right lighting conditions
in terms of wavelength and photoperiod, an adequate level of nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and micronutrients) and a source of gas exchange (CO2
), the
phytoplankton holobionts reach an optimal growth and equilibrium state. This way we obtain maximum performance, enhancing the production of the metabolites involved in maintaining the state of eubiosis called cell redox homeostasis. A proteomic data analysis of the marine
phytoplankton holobiont (Figure 4) reveals that, in the exponential growth phase, close to 60% of gene expression is induced to encode metabolites involved in cell redox homeostasis and about 30% encoding for metabolites involved in carbohydrate metabolism, the major extracellular matrix component of the phycosphere.
Bioactive molecules with diverse cosmetic
claims can be identified in the same extract, giving them multi-functional properties (Table 1). Complementary biochemical studies have also identified other antioxidant molecules of dermo-cosmetic interest: phytopigments, polyphenols and organic acids. PBT is part of the ‘blue bioeconomy’.
This technological sector is recognised by the EU as a priority environment to promote the development of new products of marine origin, as an alternative to traditional industrial products and services, which generally have a high environmental impact and are part of the linear economy4
. To date, 22,000 metabolites have been
obtained from the vast marine wealth of the world. Of these, 60% come from microorganisms and their applications cover biomedicine, biomaterials, nutraceuticals (functional foods), agricultural products and bioremediation. In cosmetics, there is a great opportunity
for ingredients from blue bioeconomy companies, due to their multifunctional properties and their marine origin. Marine compounds can be incorporated into skincare and make-up products. Their drug- like benefits lead to pharmaceutical hybrids where bioactive ingredients are added to topical or oral cosmetics to produce a cosmeceutical with enhanced properties.
TABLE 1: BIOACTIVE MOLECULES WITH DIVERSE COSMETIC CLAIMS IDENTIFIED IN PHYTOPLABKTON HOLOBIONT EXTRACT
Bioactive molecule biosynthesis Glutathion peroxidase (GPx)
Holobiont Phytoplankton Bacteria Figure 3: How holobionts develop PERSONAL CARE April 2022
Superoxide dismutase (SOD) Folic acid Vitamins A,C,E & B complex
Phytopigments (B-carotene, Ficocyanin
Thioredoxin (TRx) Isoleucine & valine p-coumaric acid
Genistein (phytoestrogen) Sucrose Trehalose
Reduce inflammation well aging
Skin-lightening Probiotic (Sebum regulator)
Humectant moisturised Exfoliant Prebiotic
Solar booster (UVA & blue light)
www.personalcaremagazine.com Dermocosmetic properties
Antioxidants
Molecular richness
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