80 HAIR CARE
Hair anti-frizz effect through sound Hair surface condition is one of the attributes immediately identified by a consumer after the application of a hair care product. Friction reduction is directly linked, microscopically, to the increase of softness of the hair fibre surface, which includes reduced roughness and closing of the outer cuticular layers of the fibre. Macroscopically, a lower degree of
aggregation and interaction between the fibres is observed. This is what characterises healthy conditioned hair, a reduction in friction during styling, and, consequently, the frizz sensation. In general, conditioning ingredients have
cationic molecules that induce a positive electrical charge in the hair fibre, levelling and restructuring the cuticular scales, which improves hair colour and shine. The resulting soft feel makes the strands easier to comb and detangle, in both wet and dry conditions. The negative charge of the hair attracts
the positively charged molecules of the conditioning ingredient, helping it to settle on the hair. This is especially true for damaged hair since the damaging processes result in hair fibres being further negatively charged. These conditioning components help to
reduce or prevent static charges on the hair since most of the electrons given off by the passage of the hair comb are attracted by the cationic sites of the cosmetic product. These electrons quickly return to hair fibres, keeping the hair with a neutral net charge without the undesired effect of frizz. We carried out a study to evaluate the
efficacy of Jatropha macrantha extract in reducing hair friction, through the translation of the surface roughness into musical sounds. We used sophisticated equipment with an electronic sensor able to traduce the roughness of hair fibres resulting from the friction of these fibres against the sensor, into a melody. Then, the musical files were converted into frequency (Hz) versus intensity (dB) data. A better anti-frizz capacity is indicated by an intensity sound attenuation. In this testing protocol, six strands of
double bleached Caucasian hair underwent a standardised preliminary cleaning process and were divided into two groups. A control group of three strands were treated with a placebo (shampoo plus ampoules), soaked for 20 seconds and rinsed off. Then, the placebo ampoule was applied, massaged in for 60 seconds and rinsed off after three minutes. In the treatment group, three strands were
treated with 2% Jatropha macrantha extract shampoo plus 10% ampoules, soaked for 20 seconds and rinsed off. After, 2% Jatropha macrantha extract shampoo was applied and massaged in for 60 seconds. Then, a 10% Jatropha macrantha extract ampoule was applied and massaged for 60 seconds. Again, the strands were rinsed off and excess water removed (five shampoo applications plus three ampoule applications). For frizz evaluation, a device with
electronic sensors (WIDI 4.50 Pro software, Figure 5) was used. This device is capable of translating the roughness of the hair fibres (friction produced on the sensor) into a melody. The measurement was carried out
PERSONAL CARE April 2022 A 0
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0 5,000 10,000 Frequency (Hz) Figure 6: Results of frequency vs. intensity in the control & treatment groups (a) & average results (b)
in triplicate for each strand. The sound was obtained in the audible range between 20 Hz and 20 KHz. The music file obtained from the friction
of the strands was converted into a text file using Audacity software. Thus, it was possible to obtain the intensity data as a function of the frequency, so as to be able to compare the treatments. The mean intensity for each treatment was calculated (Figure 6). A positive dB value means an increase in
the signal, whereas a negative value indicates an attenuation and a value of 0 means that there is no change in the signal. Lower intensity values indicate that the strand presented a lower friction coefficient which implies a greater efficiency of the treatment in reducing the frizz of the hair fibre on the sensor. The hair strands treated with Jatropha macrantha extract presented a significantly lower (-13.02%) sound intensity value than the placebo group strands.
Summary When hair is exposed to environmental pollutants, chemical treatments and physical stress, in what is known as hair weathering, it becomes, sooner or later, damaged. This damage can affect only the hair fibre surface attributes like smoothness, frizz, porosity and shine, or it can also affect its inner architecture and mechanical properties. Jatropha macrantha extract exerts a hair
global protective action. Through various in vitro and in vivo studies, it has demonstrated its ability to not only protect the hair against daily aggressions but also to reinforce and rebuild the hair fibre, avoiding the degradation and loss of proteins. Thanks to its antioxidant potential, Jatropha macrantha extract preserves the CMC, supporting hair resistance and elasticity and improving weak and breakable hair being the perfect ally to prevent and reverse hair ageing.
15,000 20,000 Control ■ Treatment Group ■ Control Treatment Group
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PC
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