24 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
CBD, tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and beta- caryophyllene (BCP). Copaiba oil has been used by natives of the Amazon in remedies long before it was known in the 21st century for relieving pain and stress. Green surfactants are also available from the
Amazon, such as cocoamphoacetate, which is obtained from crude babaçu oil, rich in lauric, myristic and oleic fatty acids. This surfactant has excellent dermal compatibility and is compatible with anionic surfactants to allow a synergistic reduction of irritability to the eyes and skin. It produces a soft and creamy foam, is naturally more viscous and can be used in clear and pearlised, rinse-off formulations for children and adults alike.
Feeling better When we talk about lifestyle, we can also talk about the ‘feelgood factor’, where consumers feel good about the choices they are making. Whether it is buying products from a brand that is Cruelty Free International (CFI)-registered and therefore, against the testing of animals or Fair Trade, or even brands that pledge to give a certain percentage of their profits to charities close to the brand. This is true for brands like Tropic Skincare, who support many charities such as United World Schools, as well as AAK’s Kolo Nafaso programme which supports women who wild harvest shea nuts. Burt’s Bees is another example. The brand has planted more than 15 billion wildflower seeds to help restore the bee population. Giving to charities is not something limited
or exclusive to finished product brands. There are also raw material manufacturers who offer the same, such as Southern Cross Botanicals who donate money to the Friends of the Koala foundation for every kilogram sold of their Australian Lemon Myrtle Extract. Science really is helping to drive change.
One example is the development of in vitro tests to supersede the unnecessary animal testing of cosmetic ingredients and products. These alternative tests utilise advanced computer modelling techniques as well as human cells and tissues, and should now be employed wherever possible for any mandatory tests deemed necessary for safety, REACH requirements, etc. Moving to in vitro testing will not
jeopardise safety or put humans at risk. With more and more countries now banning animal testing for cosmetics and more than 80% of adults believing animal testing should be phased out in favour of alternative test methods, it is high time for these tests to become the trusted and new gold standard for the cosmetics industry, a move very much welcomed by CFI. The sooner the better, not only for the animals and the feelgood factor, but also because in vitro testing has a cost advantage too.
Palm oil issues Across the entire supply chain, everyone is trying to do their bit for the environment, animals and climate change, whether it be packaging, biodegradability, upcycling,
PERSONAL CARE April 2022
Southern Cross Botanicals who donate money to the Friends of the Koala foundation for every kilogram sold of their Australian Lemon Myrtle Extract
Palm oil has been the subject of considerable debate in the industry
charitable donations, cruelty-free, sustainable, Fair Trade, etc. Other lifestyle choices include purchasing
from suppliers that use RSPO-segregated palm oil to ensure that the oil is sustainably sourced in order to protect the valuable habitat of orangutans and the essential to life forest areas. We have all seen the distressing images of deforestation and the devastation this can cause and this has led to a rise in more and more brands switching to RSPO-certified sustainable palm feedstocks as a minimum policy standard. Some brands have even opted to go palm
oil-free, but is this really the solution? The yield value of palm oil is very high and so this not only makes it a very financially viable option for many industries including food and the automotive industry, but it also makes it almost impossible to replace with any other oil without causing further deforestation. Thus, it is a bit of a double-edged sword
with many arguing that the best solution will be to manage what we have in a sensitive way and use RSPO-certified mass balance or segregated palm oil as standard and not as a pack claim.
The debate rages on and is part of the ongoing conversation about how we both utilise and protect our natural resources. If we look after nature, then surely nature will look after us.
Green sourcing The Union for Ethical Biotrade (UEBT) is an association that promotes the ‘sourcing with respect’ of ingredients from biodiversity. Southern Cross Botanicals, along with many other companies, is proud to be a member and has committed to gradually ensuring that its sourcing practices promote biodiversity conservation, respect traditional knowledge and ensure an equitable sharing of benefits along the supply chains, all the way to the producers. Again, this is a positive step for ensuring a
world in which people and biodiversity thrive. EcoVadis is another sustainability certification body and is the world’s largest and most trusted provider of business sustainability ratings. We can all learn a lot from nature if we take
the time to look, appreciate and look after the wealth of knowledge all around us. We need to try to live more harmoniously with nature, rather than destroying it at the current alarming rate. Many of the ingredients we use in our day-
to-day lives, from medicines to cosmetics have often been as a result of seeing how nature lives and survives. All too often, scientists are amazed when they test certain products that have been used for millennia to find they do indeed work. Take, for example, the copaiba oil from the Brazilian Amazon. The local tribes had used it for years to relieve pain, skin disorders and stress. Surprisingly, when tested, it does just that.
Going to extremes Extremophiles have long been a source of
interest to scientists. These creatures live in such harsh environments and they have often challenged scientific beliefs, such as the
notion that life stops at depths deeper than 550 metres due to the lack of light and the fact that light is required for life, when in fact marine life has been identified in the deepest, darkest areas of the some of the Earth’s oceans. The Galapagos Islands, at a depth of 2,500
metres and a pressure of 250 bars, are located close to hydrothermal vents. Here came the extraordinary discovery of an unsuspected
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