MARINE INGREDIENTS Phycoskin® (PSK) bioactives are high
value-added marine extracts biotechnologically developed by MAS and are the first cooperative ingredients from marine holobionts. They are produced under strict internal quality standards and to COSMOS-certified quality. The extraction process uses unique green
chemistry principles and do not involve the use of environmentally harmful chemicals. Thus, they are non-sensitising, non-dermal and ocular-irritating. The formulation stability and high skin
penetration capacity of a state of equilibrium is possible thanks to a proprietary encapsulation technology developed by MAS. Molecular Carrier Biotech (MCB) keeps the odour, oxidation and colour problems, which are very common in extracts containing phytoplankton, to a minimum.
Antioxidant-whitening dual system PSK One, hereafter referred to as planktonic holobiont, comes from a holobiont composed of Atlantic and Mediterranean plankton species. This marine holobiont bioactive releases the antioxidant-whitening dual system to comprehensively combat the effects of exposome on skin ageing and pigmentation. The antioxidant action of this holobiont
combines the effect of primary (the enzymes SOD and GTx) and secondary antioxidants (vitamins A, C and E, and phytopigments), providing an anti-melanogenic shield. The whitening action is based on the effect of p-coumaric acid, as a
■ Before ■ After A
100 80 60 40 20 0
B
100 80 60 40 20 0
C
15 10 5 0
-5
-10 -15
-20 -25 -30
+24% moisture T0 ** * * * PSK One 1%
+18% elasticity **
* * * Placebo
97 The clinical efficacy of planktonic holobiont
was tested, in vivo during the summer months, with a blind, placebo-controlled study. The studies were conducted with 21 volunteers, between 29 and 65, who had been exposed to exposome factors (UVA and pollutions) and most had clear signs of hyperpigmentation. They applied the bioactive at 1% on the skin
of the face, twice daily for 28 days. Baseline moisture, elasticity and pigmentation were measured on Day 0 by corneometer, cutometer and mexameter, respectively, and after 28 days using a Microcaya multi-dermoscope. As Figure 5 shows, moisture and elasticity
Figure 4: Proteomic data analysis of phytoplankton holobiont extracts
tyrosine inhibitor that prevents and reduces the skin spots. The brightening effect is due to the melanin breakdown action of lignin peroxidase, balancing skin tone. In vitro studies showed that planktonic
holobiont at 0.3% has antioxidant properties that combat the signs of photoageing. An anti- glycosylation effect of +34% and a trolox capacity of +58 um was recorded. An enzymatic study revealed a +50% hyaluronidase inhibition effect. The bioactive also demonstrated a brightening effect, due to its +51% tyrosinase inhibition capacity.
level were increased by 24% and 18% respectively, showing that the provides lifting and moisturising against exposome effects. It reduced pigmentation by 30% in the spot (area with hyperpigmentation), but only by 7% outside, indicating a spot reduction effect and balancing the skin tone and radiance.
Synbiotic effect for skin balance Synbiötik Phycoskin comes from a benthic holobiont composed of phytoplankton species from rocky shore microecosystem. This benthic holobiont bioactive provides a neobiotic molecular complex composed of postbiotic substances that restore the skin balance and prebiotic substances that rebalance microbiota, reducing visible dysbiosis impairment, such as redness and lesions in acne-prone skin. In vitro studies showed that benthic
holobiont bioactive at 0.05% promotes 21% growth of Staphylococcus epidermidis against Staphylococcus aureus, providing a prebiotic effect. Therefore, if the S. epidermidis and other beneficial bacteria may proliferate against S. aureus colonisation, resulting in a rebalance of skin microbiota (eubiosis) and skin tissue recovering. The clinical efficacy of benthic holobiont
PSK One 1% In spot Placebo Out spot T28 * * *
bioactive was evaluated in vivo, measuring the main parameters to establish the skin condition: stratum corneum moisture, sebum content and skin surface pH. The double-blind study was conducted during the COVID-19 pandemic, with 40 volunteers aged 19 to 29, who applied 1% bioactive on their faces twice daily for 28 days. They had acne-prone skin and had used facemasks before and during the study, so they were expected to be prone to ‘maskne’. As Figure 6 shows, the benthic holobiont
bioactive significantly improved (68%) the volunteers’ moisture index. It was more noteworthy on the T zone (forehead and chin) and the cheekbones. It also significantly reduces sebum index by 37% in all volunteers with moderate and severe acne after four weeks of use.
**
-30% pigmentation Active Vs Placebo (in spot)
■ PSK One 1% ■ Placebo
Figure 5: In vivo study of PSK One Note: Comparative values of moisture (A), elasticity (B) and pigmentation index (C) and pictures of a volunteer from Day 0 to 28 using PSK
One at 1% twice a day
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Formulation examples Due to the MCB system, these bioactives are superbly stable ingredients in final formulas. They are of >99% natural origin content (ISO 16128), microbiota-friendly and water- dispersible. The main applications are in night and daily creams and serums, dermocosmetics and eye contour creams. The key benefits of the planktonic holobiont bioactive are:
April 2022 PERSONAL CARE
Pigmentation Index Elasticity value Moisture value
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