34 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
skin elasticity (+49% after four weeks) and skin stretchability (-25%). These results were inversely proportional to skin firmness and hint of increased skin barrier integrity and keratinocyte cells compactness, as analysed using a Cutometer. In addition to the objective instrumental evaluations, the treatment with biomimetic endorphin also reported significant results superior to the benchmark cream in terms of perceived efficacy expressed by the panellists (Figure 7).
Conclusion Neurocosmetics represent the present and the future of the personal care industry, given the growing interest of consumers in the use of biomimetic substances able to interact with physiological components of the skin nervous system. Endorphins, the neurotransmitters typically released by our nervous system during moments of our daily life that are associated with feelings of stress-killing and boosting self-esteem, play a key role also on the skin as they proved several benefits in anti-ageing and regeneration process. Kalichem has introduced to the market
Peptilift, a speciality based on an innovative biomimetic endorphin (SH-Pentapeptide-5) included in a functional delivery system (CLA Glutathione). The literature and in vivo efficacy studies demonstrate its properties in modulating the neuromuscular junction activity through its peptide interaction with the pre-synaptic δ-opioid receptor, inducing face mimic muscle relaxation and a highly significant medium- to long-term anti-wrinkle action. Instrumental assessments highlighted wrinkle volume decrease by 55%, increased skin elasticity by 49% and a significant improvement of skin firmness and tone, along with outstanding values of perceived efficacy in each of the previously mentioned parameters. This biomimetic endorphin has also
been proven to act as agonist of opioid receptors located on epidermal cells, including keratinocytes, and influence the expression of hemidesmosomes, MMPs and skin growth factors involved in the stratum corneum regeneration process. These refined mechanisms of action suggest additional applicative solutions to the wrinkle care, such as skin revitalisation and resilience, both of which claims are associated with the active’s proven benefits in improving the
-24.9 -16.7 49 7.7
15.5 8.7
-9.5 -8.8
(Corneometer CM 825) (Tewameter TM300)
Stretchability (Cutometer)
TEWL
Hydration
Visco-elasticity (Cutometer)
Benchmark ■ Peptilift ■
Figure 6: Anti-ageing parameter variations after 4 weeks: Peptilift vs. benchmark Note:* - Parameter inversely proportional to firmness
skin barrier function, keratinocyte compactness and regeneration after damage.
References: 1. Holden J, Jeong Y, Forrest MJ. The endogenous opioid system & clinical pain management. AACN Clin. Issues. Jul-Sep 2005;16(3):291-301
2. Henry SM, Gendron L, Tremblay M, Drolet G. Enkephalins: Endogenous analgesics with an emerging role in stress resilience. Neural Plast. 2017. 1546125. doi: 10.1155/2017/1546125. Epub 2017 Jul 11
3. Bigliardi PL, Tobin,DJ, Gaveriaux-Ruff, C, Bigliardi-Qi, M. Opioids & the skin - where do we stand? Exp. Dermatol. 2009. 18;424–430
4. Bigliardi-Qi M, Gaveriaux-Ruff C, Hell C, Bady P, Rufli T, Kieffer B, Bigliardi P. Deletion of δ-opioid receptor in mice alters skin differentiation & delays wound healing. Differentiation. 2006. 74;174–185
5. Bigliardi P, Dancik Y, Neumann C, Bigliardi- Q-M. Opioids & skin homeostasis, regeneration & ageing – What’s the evidence? Exp. Dermatol. 2016 Aug;25(8):586-91
6. Chajra H, Amstutz B, Schweikert K, Auriol D, Benchmark ■ Peptilift ■ 84 77 70 73 94 78 Figure 7: Mean perceived efficacy after 4 weeks: Peptilift vs. benchmark PERSONAL CARE April 2022
97 98
Moisturising Replumping Anti-wrinkle Firming
PC
Redziniak G, Lefevre F. Opioid receptor delta as a global modulator of skin differentiation & barrier function repair. Int. J. Cos. Sci. 2015. 1–9
7. Husain S, Liou GI, Crosson CE. Opioid receptor activation: Suppression of ischemia/ reperfusion-induced production of TNF-α in the retina. Invest. Ophthalmol. Vis. Sci. 2011. 52;2577–2583
8. Stachowska E, Dolegowska B, Dziedziejk V, Rybicka M, Kaczmarczyk M, Bober J, Rac M, Machalinski B, Chlubek D. Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) & thromboxane A2 (TXA2) synthesis is regulated by conjugated linoleic acids (CLA) in human macrophages. J. Physiol. Pharmacol. 2009 Mar. 60(1);77-85
9. Arab K, Rossary A, Soulère L, Steghens JP. Conjugated linoleic acid, unlike other unsaturated fatty acids, strongly induces glutathione synthesis without any lipoperoxidation. Br. J. Nutr. 2006 Nov. 96(5):811-9
10. Tang L, Cao X, Xiaolei Li, Ding H. Topical application with conjugated linoleic acid ameliorates 2, 4-dinitrofluorobenzene- induced atopic dermatitis-like lesions in BALB/c mice. Exp. Dermatol. 2021 Feb;30(2):237-248. doi: 10.1111/exd.14242. Epub 2021 Jan 6
11. Etnawati K, Adiwinarni DR, Susetiati DA, Sauchi Y. The efficacy of skin care products containing glutathione in delivering skin lightening in Indonesian women. Dermatology Reports. 2019 March. 11(1s)
12. Watanabe F, Hashizume E, Chan GP, Kamimura A. Skin-whitening & skin- condition-improving effects of topical oxidised glutathione: A double-blind & placebo-controlled clinical trial in healthy women. Clin. Cosmet. Inv. Dermatol. 2014 Oct. 17;7:267-74
13. Di Lorenzo R, Forgione F, Bernardi A, Sacchi A, Laneri S. 2022. Biomimetic Endorphin for wrinkle lifting in a daily cosmetic remedy. Accepted for publication. J. Derm. Dermatol. Diseases
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