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MICROBIOME


Synbiotic skin care with Bacillus spores


Dr Robin Temmerman – HeiQ Chrisal; Filip Meersman - Mylène


Microorganisms populate almost every area of our planet. They are found in environments ranging from the deep sea, hot springs and other extreme environments to more apparently benign habitats closer to home, including quite literally any surface in our homes but also those of the human body. The gut microbiome is well known, but bacteria, yeasts and moulds also thrive on the surface of our respiratory tract and skin. The skin microbiome in particular has


attracted much attention from skin care professionals in recent years. It is now well established that maintaining a well-balanced equilibrium of various species is key to the skin’s—and ultimately our own—health and that any imbalance in the microbiome’s diversity is at the origin of multiple skin disorders. Maintaining or improving a healthy skin


microbiome the use of pre-, pro- and postbiotics is gradually gaining importance in personal care. The main challenge lies in the area of probiotics, which implies the introduction of living bacteria into a cream, lotion or other formulation. Although several products in the market


claim to contain probiotics, it very often turns out that the active ingredient is a bacterial cell lysate rather than live bacteria. Some brands, though, have successfully overcome the challenge of inoculating products without spoiling them and reaping the benefits of true probiotics. In this paper, we describe the benefits and challenges related to live probiotic strains and prebiotics in cosmetic products.


Importance of the skin’s microbiome The skin is a complex and dynamic ecosystem that is inhabited by bacteria, archaea, fungi and viruses.1,2


These microbes—collectively


referred to as the skin microbiome—are fundamental to skin physiology and immunity. Interactions between skin microbes and the host can fall anywhere along the continuum between mutualism and pathogenicity. It has been shown that there is a complex dialogue between skin microbes and the host, with consequences in terms of health and disease. From the recent review by Callewaerts, it is


clear that the skin microbiome is very different, depending on body location, but is rather stable over time.3


Yet, many parameters can negatively


influence the stability and diversity of the microbiome, including sunlight, temperature changes, pH, moisture content and even the antimicrobial or immunological responses of the skin itself.


www.personalcaremagazine.com


a link between skin health and gastrointestinal health.4


been successfully applied to (partly) restore skin disorders,5


Numerous studies have also demonstrated Probiotics and changes of diet have and the idea of modulating


the skin microbiome positively through the applications of probiotics, or even microbiome transplantations, is gaining scientific attention.


Probiotic & synbiotic skincare Similar to the well-known use of probiotics and prebiotics to positively influence the gut microflora, probiotic and synbiotic skincare technology was recently introduced into the skincare market to modulate the skin microbiome. The best-known probiotic bacteria include members of the genera Bacillus, Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium. Bifidobacterium are anaerobic and are


therefore not suitable for external or topical use. Lactobacillus, on the other hand, is a respected member of a good gut microflora and is often used in food applications, though it has also been used in cosmetics. Bacillus is mostly found in nature (such as soil and water) and very adapted to changing conditions (Figure 1). It is one of


HO OH OH HO O HO OH O HO OH OH


Figure 2: Inulin, an ideal prebiotic Note: Inulin is a polydisperse mixture of linear fructose polymers


and oligomers in which the fructose moieties are linked by β(2-1) bonds. A glucose molecule typically caps the end of each fructose chain. The chain lengths of these fructans range from 2 to 60 units


O


HO HO


O


CH2 O


n


Figure 1: Bacillus sp. Note: Bacillus species, such as B. subtilis, are Gram-positive, rod-


shaped bacteria that form dormant spores


the most widespread species and as such also frequently found on skin. Because the introduction of probiotic


bacteria to the skin microbiome may render the microbiome too ‘artificial’, prebiotic sugars, such as inulin or oligofructose, are added next to the probiotic bacteria. This will boost the performance of the probiotics in the product, and second, promote the development of already present ‘desirable’ organisms and as such promote microbiome diversity. HeiQ Chrisal has developed a symbiotic,


patented synbiotic concentrate containing Bacillus spores from selected species in combination with inulin (Figure 2).6


The spores offer an


elegant solution for incorporating bacteria in a cosmetic product (Figure 3). Because of their robustness towards external factors like low and high temperatures and pH, as well as good compatibility with other active ingredients, they can be easily used in cold and hot processing. This makes them very versatile and


amenable for use in almost any type of cosmetic product. Moreover, they have a much lower production cost and an extended shelf- life. Once applied on the skin the latent spores develop in living bacteria. In order to speed up this transition, inulin was added as a prebiotic booster (Figure 4). This reduces the germination time from one hour to 30 minutes. Certainly, for hand hygiene products, this booster effect helps to get fast result and protection.


Benefits of probiotic & synbiotic skincare


The initial idea of using probiotics for application on then skin was for the purpose of improving infection control. Vandini et al. had used Bacillus probiotics in hard surface cleaning


April 2022 PERSONAL CARE


87


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