78 HAIR CARE
Black maca for inner hair architecture
Lorena Sánchez, Cristina Thiebaut - R&D Department, Cobiosa
Hair weathering is the term given to the deterioration of the hair shaft as a result of cosmetic and environmental factors. In weathered hair, structural damage to the hair fibre causes the cuticle to become unstructured and porous, exposing the cortex to further damage. Among these factors are environmental
pollutants such as UV radiation, smog, cigarette smoke, chemical cosmetic procedures, etc. These generate free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS), molecules that oxidise and degrade the proteins and lipids of the hair surface. Physical stress, such as combing, blow
drying or excessive heat from strengthening or curling irons, dehydrates and degrades the proteins of the hair surface. Moreover, drastic procedures like perming, relaxing and bleaching cause structural and chemical damage, and are also a source of free radicals and ROS. Daily weathering is also a minor cause of hair loss and a common cause of frazzled and frizzy, hard-to-manage hair.
Hair CMC Cementing each cuticle and cortical cell is a lamellar emulsion of water, lipids and amino acids. This lipid-protein cement structure is called the cell membrane complex (CMC). The hair CMC provides strength, cohesion and elasticity.
When hair is exposed to UV radiation,
environmental pollution, chemical, thermal or mechanical treatments, the cortex proteins
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
up penetrating and affecting the CMC, which provides the necessary amino acids for the production of keratin.
Protecting inner hair architecture Protecsyl is an extract from Jatropha macrantha (hereafter, Jatropha macrantha extract), a native plant from Peru that is designed to protect the inner hair architecture and prevent protein degradation. Also known as ‘black maca’ and ‘huanarpo macho’, Jatropha macrantha is a medium-sized, shrubby tree species from the genus Jatropha that grows in the Andean jungle of Peru (Figure 1).
Figure 1: Jatropha macrantha
(keratin) are degraded, affecting the CMC and severely damaging the hair fibre, resulting in weak and breakable hair. Another consequence of UV radiation on hair is the oxidation of amino acids. This modifies its mechanical properties, inducing dehydration, increasing desquamation, and a loss of shine and colour. UV irradiation also weakens the structural
integrity of the proteins in the hair fibre. When these proteins are unstructured, radiation ends
-31.4% ** * -63.8% *
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Control Control + UVA 5% Jatropha
macrantha extract + UVA
10% Jatropha
macrantha extract + UVA
Figure 2: Hair protein degradation levels after treatment with Jatropha
macrantha extract & irradiation with UVA in human hair vs. control + UVA Note: * - p value < 0.01; ** - p value < 0.0001
PERSONAL CARE April 2022 NC
The name derives from the Greek words jatros (doctor) and trophe (food), which implies its medicinal uses. The people of ancient empires used it for its energising, stimulating and restorative properties, and to revitalise soldiers during long marches. Jatropha macrantha extract preserves the CMC, supporting hair resistance and elasticity, and improving weak and breakable hair. It contains, among other substances, three kinds of polyphenols: ■ Proanthocyanidins, which are present in high amounts. These are antioxidant compounds which are reported to prevent hair ageing, thanks to their ability to scavenge oxygen-free radicals and inhibit UV radiation- induced peroxidation ■ Flavonoids, which have a hair-regenerating capacity and a hair growth-promoting effect
-98% inhibition
*
1.25% Jatropha macrantha extract
*
2.5% Jatropha macrantha extract
*
5% Jatropha macrantha extract
Figure 3: Antioxidant capacity of Jatropha macrantha extract for three
concentrations vs. negative control Note: * - Represents statistical significance with p-value p<0,001; Negative control - ABTS cation
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Relative protein degradation content
Oxidation %
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