NATURALS
41
A natural sensory modifier for hair and skin care
Maryalice Belluscio, R&D Section Manager PC Applications, Nienke Mossou-Peters, Global Strategic Marketing Manager for Personal Care - Nouryon
As a result of the evolution within the skin care market, beauty formulators have been challenged to offer new innovations that meet the demand for natural and sustainable products, while continuing to deliver the performance that consumers have come to expect. Consumers spend time and effort to make sure their purchases will provide them the performance they need and have the eco credentials they like to see in a product. One out of five consumers have recently
changed their routine after researching the ingredients used in their products, demonstrating that you can win the consumer over if you position your product in the right way with the right ingredients. The strong focus on eco and natural is also evident in hair care, where next to ingredients the formats are well considered and more sustainable alternatives like dry shampoo are on the rise.
Natural alternative Amaze™ Nordic Barley (INCI: Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Seed Flour), hereafter referred to as barley seed flour, is a recent product launch by Nouryon that helps to improve the ability of formulators to deliver natural, clean and high performing formulations. It is a 100% natural, GMO-free, unmodified, COSMOS- and NATRUE- approved starch. One unique benefit of barley seed flour its
ability to offer an excellent microbiological profile without the need for heat or gamma irradiation treatment. As an unmodified starch, it has a competitive advantage over synthetic materials: it is extremely safe for both people and planet
Free flow Whitening
5.00 4.00 3.00 2.00 1.00 0.00
Coverage Slippery feel
Figure 2: Granular starch sensory performance Note: Higher scores indicate better performance.
www.personalcaremagazine.com Spreadability
■ Purity 21C Pure ■ Rice ■ Amaze Nordic Barley ■ Tapioca Pure
Soft feel
Figure 1: SEM images of starches Barley
Maize
as it is readily biodegradable with an excellent aquatic toxicity profile. It provides further benefit for clean and natural beauty formulators in that it is additive-, aluminium- and silicone-free. Barley seed flour is an upcycled ingredient,
which is produced in an eco-conscious process as a side stream of beverage manufacturing. Barley is a very sustainable crop as it grows within 90 to 120 days and can be cultivated in climates with very short summers, like the Nordic region. Our barley seed flour starch is regionally grown and sourced from Scandinavia.
Elegant performance Starch has been used as a sensory modifiers and oil absorber in personal care applications such as dry shampoos for many decades. However, barley seed flour is able to offer unique benefits compared to other types of starch products. In addition to its low-microbial profile, its starch granules are different compared to other starch species such as tapioca and
Tapioca
maize (corn). Figure 1 depicts scanning electron microscope (SEM) pictures of a variety of starch sources. Understanding the particle size distribution and morphology of a starch can help a formulator to make a more appropriate choice based on their performance requirements. In this instance, all three have a similar particle size distribution, with a median particle size range of 15-17µm. Starches can be obtained from a variety
of plant sources and the shape of the starch granule will, unsurprisingly, vary depending on its origins. Barley, for example, has a unique oblate spheroid or ellipsoid shape; maize has a polygonal shape; and tapioca has a truncated, spherical shape. The oblate spheroid packs with the highest density. As a result, barley seed flour leaves a very soft feel on hair and skin. It also forms an almost invisible barrier between treated and untreated skin, and it fills fine lines for optimal coverage. In a subjective sensory test by a group of
eight trained panellists, barley seed flour was compared to other native starches from Nouryon - Purity 21C Pure (maize) starch and Tapioca Pure (tapioca) – plus a native rice starch. As Figure 2 shows, their properties were quite similar but what stands out is that the whitening effect is much lower for barley seed flour. This is an advantage in hair care. One of the unique benefits of starches is that
they can absorb or adsorb oily ingredients and offer a more desirable sensorial property in the final product. The oil absorption for the three native starches was measured in the amount of synthetic sebum oil that can be absorbed by 1 gram of starch and were found to be comparable and typical for native starches (Figure 3). The friction data of the starch powders were
measured as well. This gives an indication of the gliding properties and how smooth the starches feel. The results were comparable between the three native Nouryon starches (Figure 4).
April 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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