MICROBIOME By far the most important challenge is
the stability and shelf-life of the cosmetic product containing live micro-organisms. Active probiotics should still be in full count at the end of a commercially reasonable shelf-life, which is 12 months after opening. Because of this difficulty, today many
manufacturers prefer to use heat-killed probiotics or cell extracts, although in such cases it should not be permitted to refer to the product as probiotic or synbiotic. One needs the probiotics alive to benefit from the many advantages they can offer. Those manufacturers that use live bacteria either focus on micro-encapsulated Lactobacillus species or the use of Bacillus spores. By choosing to work with food grade
probiotics, such as those listed on the Qualified Presumption of Safety list by the European Food Safety Agency, many safety concerns are already being answered. In addition, the manufacturer should pay close attention to additional safety testing and certainly establishing all relevant QC procedures that can deal with probiotic microorganisms in the product. A good example of safety and QC criteria for
products containing intentionally added micro- organisms can be found with the EU Ecolabel criteria for professional cleaning products. Respecting these criteria will make sure no safety issues will ever happen with probiotic cosmetics and the product being of good quality with an acceptable shelf life. The final challenge is related to the production
process and QC. The versatility of the HeiQ Chrisal Bacillus ferment implies that it can easily be added to the cosmetic product either during or at the end of the blending process. As mentioned above, specific QC protocols need to be in place to distinguish between the probiotic organisms and any contaminants. These will also make it possible to verify that the right amount of probiotics has been added. Figure 5 shows the use of selective agar plates
to detect contaminants among probiotic bacteria in a product. Although the probiotic Bacillus can also grow on some selective agar media (such as McConkey), their colonies do not discolour like contaminants and as such a distinction between the probiotic and a contaminant is visually possible.
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Figure 5: Modified QC procedures for probiotic cosmetics using nutrient agar for total count Note: All colonies are the probiotic bacteria; entero count (the colonies seen are also probiotic bacteria; contaminants would have yellow/red
colours) and yeast/mould count (probiotics cannot grow on this medium) Cleaning procedures for blending and filling
equipment should be revised when working with living bacteria or spores. The use of substances like hypochlorite or hydrogen peroxide as disinfectants should be validated. A careful risk analysis of the whole process and cleaning procedures should ensure a safe way of working and reduce the risk of unwanted contamination of non-probiotic products by the ferment. This will allow probiotic products to be made without the need for specific production facilities and thus major investments.
Conclusions Probiotic and synbiotic cosmetic products represent an emerging technology that is arriving at the right moment as a good, well-balanced skin microbiome is shown to be of major importance to our overall health. Together with regulators, the industry should develop standard criteria for this emerging technology and as science will discover new and more benefits. Claim regulation also has to be specified. Although the road ahead is quite steep, this revolutionary approach to skin microbiome modulation is extremely promising and sustainable.
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April 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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