NATURALS
preserved, but L. plantarum can function as a viable microorganism in fermentation processes and can bio-transmogrify plant biomass. In the case of Marine Fermbiotic™ L, the plants are sourced from the sea and include extracts of Spirulina Platensis (blue-green algae), Laminaria Digitata (brown seaweed) and Ulva Lactuca (sea lettuce).11-13 It was found that this unique combination
of sea-based plants fermented by L. plantarum provides a ferment extract that can stimulate the growth of skin cells including both NHDF and normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) by as much as 21% in both cell lines compared to untreated controls. This ability to stimulate the vitality of these important skin cells is reminiscent of the advantages of the earlier mentioned Tissue Respiratory Factor ingredient and can provide improvements in skin cell turn over and can help to improve skin radiance and tone. The third microorganism that has captured
attention is not as well-known as the previous two, but is a commensal found in the skin microbiome. Galactomyces candidum is a fungus that gained commercial popularity in cheese-making and likewise has found unique uses in topical treatments.14
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not, there are plenty to choose from. Front. Genet. 2020. 11;582789
3. Keller SJ, Levin RH, Fang J. Isolation & characterisation of a tissue respiratory factor from baker’s yeast. J. Cell. Biol. 1991. 304;21
4. Schlemm DJ, Crowe MJ, McNeill RB, Stanley AE, Keller SJ. Medicinal yeast extracts. Cell. Stress Chaperones. 1999. 4:171-176
5. Cabrera C, Artacho R, Gimenez R. Beneficial effects of green tea – A review. J. Am. Coll. Nutr. 2006. 25;79-99
Figure 2: Sake fermentation kegs By stimulating the enzyme in the skin that
can help make HA, the skin can, in a sense, replenish its own HA. This is a great way to add to the benefit of topically applying moisturisers to the skin, including topically applied HA which is a great in/out story on HA in the skin. Improvements in HA expression in the skin will help with important skin-hydrating benefits and will provide enhanced plumpness to the skin, which can help to minimise fine lines and wrinkles.
It has been found to
ferment milk-based ingredients to provide the unique textures and flavours of various cheeses. Like the previous two microorganisms, G.
candidum can bio-transmogrify plant biomass and in the case of the Superfruit Fermbiotic™ G, it was allowed to ferment with several well-known superfruits, including extracts of Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu plum), Adansonia Digitata (baobab) and Persea Gratissima (avocado). 15-17
The superfruits have
gained popularity because they are known to be loaded with potent antioxidants. Using a well-established antioxidant testing
method called the hydroxyl radical antioxidant capacity assay (HORAC), it was found that this ferment, with an EC50 value (the concentration at which half of the hydroxyl radicals are neutralised in the assay) of 7.8 µg/ ml, is nearly as potent an antioxidant as highly purified caffeic acid, which has an EC50 value of 2.8 µg/ml. As a comparison, Trolox, which is a well-
known water-soluble vitamin E derivative often used as a standard in antioxidant testing has an EC50 value of approximately 300 µg/ ml. In this assay, the lower the EC50 value the more potent the antioxidant is in the test. The fourth fermented ingredient in the
Fermbiotic™ Technologies, called Legume Fermbitoics™ G, again employs the unique benefits of G. candidum in combination with several well-known legumes including extracts of hydrolysed cicer seed (chickpea), Pueraria Lobata (kudzu) and Medicago Sativa (alfalfa). 18-20
Legumes are well-established
skin care ingredients that contain numerous isoflavonoids that can stimulate skin health. It was found that the G. candidum-
fermented legumes were able to stimulate the expression of hyaluronidase-1 (HAS1) protein in NHEK in vitro by 71% vs. untreated control cells. HAS1 is the enzyme that occurs in the skin that helps to make hyaluronic acid (HA).
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Methods The ferments described were developed by using standard fermentation nutrient conditions for each microorganism. During the active growth phase of the fermentation process, the plant biomass was added typically as a combined aqueous extract but could also be added as a powdered component if appropriate. The addition of the plant biomass as an extract allowed for a more thorough ability of the microorganisms to contact the important phytochemicals contained within each plant to improve the fermentation outcomes. The fermentation process was allowed to
continue until the microorganisms reached growth plateaus and then the fermentation was discontinued. The resulting crude ferments were crushed to remove living microorganisms and then purified via proprietary methods to obtain the resulting ingredients in water. The commercial fermented ingredients are preserved using either phenoxyethanol or a combination of sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate as needed.
Conclusion The Fermbiotic™ Technologies series is a new, science-based entry into the cosmetic fermentation arena. By combining the power of well-known plants with the bio-transmogrifying benefits of fermentation, these new ingredients unleash new potential and new benefits from both. Ingredients based on adaptogenic plants, marine-sourced plants, superfruits and legumes have been advanced and improved to a new level of potency and potential. These have been combined with the benefits of bio-transmogrification using the fermenting microorganisms Saccharomyces, Lactobacillus and Galactomyces to harness new beneficial ingredients for skin and scalp care.
6. Katiyar SK, Elmetz CA. Green tea polyphenolic antioxidants & skin photoprotection (Review). Int. J. Oncol. 2001 18;1307-1313
7. Gohil KJ, Patel JA, Gajjar AK. Pharmacological review of Centella asiatica: A potential herbal cure-all. Ind. J. Pharm. Sci. 2010. 72;546-556
8 Huma S, Khan HMS, Sohail M, Akhtar N, Rasool F, Majeed F, Daniyal M. Development, in vitro characterisation & assessment of cosmetic potential of Beta vulgaris extract emulsion. J. Herb. Med. 2020 23;100372
9. Wen L, Gao Q, Ma C, Ge Y, You L, Liu RH, Fu X, Liu D. Effect of polysaccharides from Tremella fuciformis on UV-induced photoaging. J. Funct. Foods. 2016. 20; 400-410
10. Jeong JH, Lee CY, Chung DK. Probiotic lactic acid bacteria & skin health. Crit. Rev. Food Sci. Nutr. 2016 56;2331-2337
11. Ragusa I, Nardone GN, Zanatta S, Bertin W, Amadio E. Spirulina for skin care: A bright blue future. Cosmetics. 2021. 8;7
12. Jesumani V, Du H, Aslam M, Pei P, Huang N. Potential use of seaweed bioactive compounds in skincare - A review. Marine Drugs. 2019. 17;688
13. Brunt EG, Burgess JG. The promise of marine molecules as cosmetic active ingredients. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2017. 40;1-15
14. Miyamoto K, Dissanayke B, Omotezaka T, Takemura M, Tsuji G, Furue M. Daily fluctuation of facial pore area, roughness & redness among young Japanese women: Beneficial effects of Galactomyces ferment filtrate containing antioxidative skin care formula. J. Clin. Med. 2021. 10;2502
15. Fahmy NM, Al-Sayed E, Singab AN. Genus Terminalia: A phytochemical & biological review. Med. Aroma. Plants. 2015. 4
16. Thiyagarajan V, Muthusamy P, Jayshree N, Bharathi RV. A review on Adansonia digitata – potential herb. Res. J. Pharmaco. Phytochem. 2015. 7;57-60
17. Ranade SS, Thiagarajan P. A review on Persea americana Mill. (avocado)-ts fruit & oil. Int. J. Pharmtech. Res. 2012. 8;72-77.
18. Mahjour M, Khoushabi A, Noras MR, Hamedi S. Effectiveness of Cicer arietinum in cutaneous problems: Viewpoint of Avicenna & Razi. Curr. Drug. Dis. Tech. 2018. 15;243-250.
PC
References 1. National Geographic. 2016 2. Lengeler KB, Stovicek V, Fennessy RT, Katz M, Forster J. Never change a brewing yeast? Why
19. Ulbricht C, Costa D, Dam C, D’Auria D, Giese N, Isaac R. An evidence-based systematic review of Kudzu (Pueraria lobata) by the Natural Standard Research Collaboration. J. Diet. Supple. 2015. 12;36-104.
20. Sharma P, Das S, Mohanta T. A study on the wound-healing properties ofMedicago sativa. J. Drug Delivery Therap. 2021. 11; 132-135.
April 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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