ANTI-AGEING
■ Skin colour & pigmentation: redness, tone, radiance, age spots and circles under the eyes ■ Skin topography: crow’s feet, furrow lines, upper lip, under-eye, forehead wrinkles and roughness ■ Skin structure: thickness of the epidermal junction, barrier function, etc. ■ Volume: face, nasolabial sagging or ‘smile lines’, puffiness, eyelids, etc. ■ Biomechanical properties: firmness, elasticity, etc.
Focus on wrinkle objectivation Brand communication is always on the lookout for new techniques for highlighting anti-wrinkle results. As soft as it may be, human skin does not have a flat surface; it has a relief, which is organised in a relatively uniform way into a system of wide and deep primary furrows and transverse secondary more superficial fine lines. The function of this network is first to allow a protective mechanical extension in the direction of the stresses on the skin but also to help both the diffusion and the retention of sebum and sweat. The skin of the face is a complex relief,
with a combination of micro and macro relief, resulting from structural changes in the epidermis, dermis and hypodermis with age. The macro relief is composed of fine lines (0.2-1 mm), wrinkles (>1 mm) particularly on the forehead (glabella wrinkle), crow’s feet, the cheeks and folds. Due to the difference in magnitude (µm to mm), these reliefs must be quantified in
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(at rest) or dynamic wrinkles: horizontal forehead, glabellar frown, periorbital, preauricular, cheeks, nasolabial; upper radial lips, lower radial lips, corners of the mouth, marionette lines, labiomenta and horizontal neck. Generally, the common target is the crow’s feet area around the eye. What claims can be supported? These
different ways. The measurements of skin profilometry are a sort of skin mapping of the peaks and valleys. Naturally, this claim substantiation brings us back to the objective analysis of the skin surface and finally to the roughness and the wrinkles measurements. The several lines, folds or crease zones
of the face and the neck can be defined as anatomic reference points for the assessment of wrinkle depth. There are 11 areas for static
may include reduced lines, erasing wrinkles, diminishing creases or decreasing folds with short-or long-term effect. It may concern skin care and make-up with biological performance or optical and soft-focus effects This is important to define. Leaving aside indirect methods that analyse the print by profilometry and consumer tests, the main direct methods available today are: ■ Scores & grades: There are more than five existing scales (0-5 or 0-9) to quantify the number and depth, and qualify the appearance of wrinkles. The evaluation can be performed by an evaluator and subjects. The objectivity of the method is mainly due to the photographic documentation and the correlated grades. The most famous one is the Roland Bazin and Eric Doublet atlas of cutaneous ageing, with six to eight grades and eight types of wrinkles. ■ Standardised photography, which provides global information as well as objective support and traceability. This has evolved a lot in recent years and today image capture systems and dedicated software are available. Filters (parallel polarisation)
www.personalcaremagazine.com
April 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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