NATURALS
43
Oribe dry texturising spray
Figure 5: Whiteness comparison vs commercial benchmark: Rice starch (left), Amaze Nordic Barley (right)
oiliness and powdery feeling by comparison with the control, and no significant difference in terms of immediate spreadability and long-term stickiness, slipperiness, residue or whitening.
Formulation examples We have outlined the benefits of using barley seed flour in dry shampoo, highlighting less whitening, more shine, and the soft feel and good combability of dry shampoos with this starch. We have also seen how it helps to build volume in hair spray and reduces oiliness and improves the powdery feel on skin. Below we outline hair care and styling products featuring it. Frizz Control - Silky & Soft Hair Cream
(Table 3) can be used on damp hair or as a final coat after styling to seal in moisture and keep humidity out. It keeps frizz away, leaving the hair with a natural look and a soft feel. The lightweight formula contains natural film formers, which smoothen the hair cuticles and offer volume and natural styling. Barley seed flour provides oil absorption while maintaining a soft feel on hair. Among the other ingredients, hydroxypropyl
starch phosphate is a starch-based rheology modifier that allows for easy to make cold process formulations with excellent emulsion stability. Dehydroxanthan gum is a naturally derived multifunctional styling polymer and thickening agent that offers outstanding fixative, high humidity curl retention properties. Sodium polyitaconate is a 100% natural hair control polymer that enables formulators to build volume, enhance shine, offer thermal protection and control frizz in a wide variety of applications. Got2Barley (not shown) is natural styling
gum cream with excellent sensorial effects, in which barley seed flour provides a natural and
Ingredients INCI Ingredients INCI
texture spray 2860-36
Figure 6: Mannequin volume comparison
TABLE 4: WET SKIN POWDER TO MILK LOTION (AFTER-SHOWER BEARD POWDER) Phase A
Amaze Nordic Barley1 Amaze XT poxlymer1 Calcium carbonate2 Structure XL starch1 Microcare NB3
B Natrasorb Bath1 Evening Primrose Oil4 Elfacos ST 37 emulsion stabiliser1
Hordeum vulgare (Barley) Powder Dehydroxanthan Gum Calcium carbonate
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Sodium Benzoate Tapioca starch
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil PEG-22/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer
% w/w 48.90 1.00 2.00 2.00 0.10
30.00 15.00 1.00
Procedure: Prepare Phase B: in a powder mixer (or food mixer) add Natrasorb Bath and Elfacos ST 37 and the oil. Mix well until all liquid is absorbed into the starch. Mix Structure XL in the blender until you get a fine powder then add the remaining ingredients of Phase A into the mixer containing Phase B and mix well.
Suppliers: 1. Nouryon
2.Merck KGaA 3. Thor 4. Davco
soft feel. Invisible Volumising Texture Spray (not shown, please contact Nouryon for details) It also includes hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and is a dry texturising spray that is invisible on the hair. This contains barley seed flour for effective oil absorption, delivering a clean soft touch to the hair. It provides a natural appearance and sensory enhancement in final consumer formulations. The formulation is very suitable for natural styling in dry shampoos and other hair styling products and make new visual effects like nude look possible due to its singular oblate spheroid morphology. Acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer is added to the formulation to provide additional hold, styling and volumising properties. Wet Skin Powder to Milk Lotion (Table 4)
is a convenient and easy-to-use on-the-go formulation that creates an instant lotion when applied to wet skin and can well be used as an after-shower beard powder. This formulation contains a unique combination of five Nouryon ingredients designed to offer a stable powder
TABLE 5: NATURAL TEXTURISING DRY SHAMPOO PUFFER Phase
Powder phase
Amaze Nordic Barley1 Tapioca Pure starch1
Amaze XT polymer1 Magnesium Stearate NF FCC Kosher2
Hordeum vulgare (Barley) Powder Tapioca Starch
Dehydroxanthan Gum Magnesium Stearate
% w/w
60.00 29.60
0.40 10.00
Procedure: Begin by charging all the required magnesium stearate along with all the Amaze XT polymer and equal parts of Amaze Nordic Barley starch and Tapioca Pure starch to a dry powder blending vessel. Once loaded, seal the vessel, and then gently blend the powders together. After blending, continue to add equal parts of Amaze Nordic Barley and Tapioca Pure, blending between additions, until all of the Tapioca Pure has been added. Once all of the Tapioca Pure has been added, charge the remaining Amaze Nordic Barley and blend the mixture for several minutes to ensure even dispersion of the powders. When complete, carefully pour starches into final containers, taking care to avoid the formation of powder clouds.
Suppliers: 1. Nouryon 2. Universal Preserv-A-Chem
product that is water activated to provide a rich aesthetic and soft after feeling. Barley seed flour provides improved skin
aesthetics with minimal whitening. Natrosorb Bath (INCI: Tapioca Starch) is a water-soluble readily biodegradable tapioca starch that is uniquely modified to absorb very high oil loads that can released on contact with water. PEG-22/dodecyl glycol copolymer, a liquid non-ionic emulsion stabiliser that enables cold process emulsions. Finally, Natural Texturising Dry Shampoo
Puffer (Table 5) is a non-aerosol texturising dry shampoo that will leave hair with a refreshed feeling and ready to take on a new look. The formula contains a blend of barley seed flour and tapioca starch to extract the grease and remove the oily shine. Dehydroxanthan gum is also blended into this formula to leave the hair with a light texture, ready to be built into the next style or simply to build additional volume.
Summary Barley seed flour is a new introduction in the personal care market. This unique valuable sensory modifier can provide excellent sensory in hair and skin care applications because of its unique particle shape. Furthermore, as a plant-derived and upcycled
ingredient it can meet the needs of the some of the most stringent clean and natural beauty formulation requirements all while being able to provide consumer valued performance. It can well be formulated together with other natural ingredients, providing high performance products that meet consumer needs for eco, natural and green.
PC
www.personalcaremagazine.com April 2022 PERSONAL CARE
volumising
Invisible
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