LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
In addition to the aforementioned mechanism, the biomimetic endorphin oligopeptide also modulates the activity of keratinocyte and fibroblast hemidesmosomes (promoting their disassembly and skin cell migration toward damaged tissues) as well as that of metalloproteases (MMPs), by specifically targeting the isoforms MMP2 and MMP9, which are involved in the degradability of compromised skin matrix structures and in the reorganisation of the skin regeneration process. In addition, it has a modulatory activity on
several skin-revitalising factors, such as the kinases pERK, RSK2 and Pelk1, and transcription factors involved in various processes, such as cell proliferation, differentiation, survival, revitalisation and proteolysis of compromised extracellular matrix. Most of these mechanisms of action typically occur with the epidermal growth factor, which acts as an agonist of the same biological receptor (DOPr), with a similar pattern of activity. The biomimetic endorphin oligopeptide
is therefore proven to promote wound repair processes and, as a DOPr agonist, it preserves skin homeostasis and regeneration, counteracting skin ageing at multiple levels.
CLA-glutathione CLA-glutathione is a macromolecule containing CLA condensed with reduced glutathione (GSH). Due to the unsaturated fatty acid portion, it is able to act as a permeation enhancer on biological membranes, thus increasing the delivery of GSH and oligopeptides through the skin. Moreover, CLA has a well-documented anti- inflammatory action in literature8 biological synthesis of glutathione9
. It induces the , promotes
skin barrier repair, maintains a balanced skin pH and increases skin hydration by upregulating skin barrier-related proteins, such as filaggrin. In addition, CLA significantly and dose-
dependently inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6, IL-1β, TNF-α and pro-inflammatory enzyme expressions of inducible nitric oxide synthase and cyclooxygenase-2. Its anti-inflammatory effect is associated with the inhibition of IκBα and NF-κB p65 phosphorylation10
. Clinical studies have shown that CLA is able
to improve the appearance of photoaged skin, providing it with multiple anti-ageing benefits. Finally, flexible long-chain CLA stabilises glutathione and other reactive oligopeptides, protecting them from oxidation, due to steric hindering.
Benchmark cream ■ Peptilift cream ■
20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
Figure 5: Crow’s feet area volume reduction (%) after 4 weeks of treatment with Peptilift Crows feet
Subject 1
www.personalcaremagazine.com Subject 2 April 2022 PERSONAL CARE BEFORE AFTER BEFORE AFTER
33
Figure 3: Frown lines on volunteer’s forehead before & after 4 weeks of treatment with Peptilift
lightening properties11
GSH is known for its antioxidant and skin , due to its inhibitory
action on melanogenesis. In addition, an in vivo study demonstrated that topical application can beneficially improve skin moisture and reduce wrinkles12
.
Anti-wrinkle: Clinical evaluations In vivo efficacy evaluations were made by comparing a cream containing the biomimetic endorphin oligopeptide to a placebo treatment (data not shown) and a benchmark cream with an anti-wrinkle active13
. 60 volunteers aged
between 40 and 65 with skin ageing signs were selected and divided into three groups. A single-blind study protocol was used, which included the measurement of the volume, area and depth of the forehead and frown lines, nasolabial folds and crow’s feet. These subjects received an objective evaluation using a standardised numerical scale and were assessed for the degree of skin ageing and the type of skin using Courage+Khazaka’s Complete Skin Investigation (CSI) analysis system. All the volunteers were evaluated at the beginning and after two and four weeks by using the Visioface 1000D high-resolution camera, also by Courage+Khazaka. This captured an image of their faces, quantified the variation in volume, area and depth of wrinkles and compared wrinkle images during the study period. The volume of the forehead lines showed
a statistically significant average percentage decrease of 22.8% and 55.7% respectively after two and four weeks using the cream with containing the biomimetic endorphin peptide (Figure 1). The benchmark cream showed lower
BEFORE AFTER
Figure 4: Nasiolabial folds on volunteer’s forehead before & after 4 weeks of treatment with Peptilift
variation, with statistically significant average values of 18.2% after two weeks and 23.0% after four weeks. The placebo treatment showed statistically insignificant improvement. The instrumental results, as well as the images
of the four-week challenge, suggest a powerful activity induced by the biomimetic endorphin (Figure 2). A similar pattern was observed with the reduction of the frown lines (Figure 3) and nasolabial folds (Figure 4). The biomimetic endorphin-based cream showed significantly superior improvements when compared to the benchmark cream, with overall decreases by 21.37% of the frown line volume and 41.2% of the nasolabial fold volume (Figure 1). Both results outperformed the benchmark product. The crow’s feet area also showed a
significant average percentage decrease of 18.3% after four weeks of using the cream with the biomimetic endorphin. Despite the peculiar physiological structure of the periorbital area, which is notoriously difficult to target with cosmetics actives (because of the local abundance of muscles, approximately 20, the low number of elastin and collagen fibres, its thinner skin layers and lower blood microcirculation), the biomimetic endorphin peptide still significantly outscored the benchmark (Figure 5).
Other parameters Tests were also carried out to assess skin hydration, using a Corneometer CM 825, the integrity of the skin barrier (Tewameter TM 300), and skin elasticity and firmness (Figure 6). The biomimetic endorphin treatment showed the most interesting results in the areas of
BEFORE AFTER
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