MARINE INGREDIENTS
into something useful. Via a proprietary green chemistry-based cold extraction process, an extract with oil-in-water emulsifying properties is produced. Other interesting applications are in the pipeline, such as vegan leather, but cosmetics is the first application this team has experimented with. This extract, whose trade name is
SeaBalance 2000 (Figure 1), is available in a paste form and is really versatile, as it works in cold as well as hot processes in a pH range of 3.5 to 9. Use levels are 3-6% and it can emulsify a wide range of oils between 10% to 40%, giving fluid white or off-white emulsions with a nice, silky texture. The INCI name, Sargassum Fluitans/Natans Extract, reflects the use of the two different sargassum species used to make the extract. This material has also just been COSMOS-
approved and has also been validated to be without animal origin by Ecocert Greenlife. Given the issues with heavy metals absorption, every batch of the material is screened for arsenic content in order to ensure safety compliance. Other metals screened on a spot testing basis are cadmium, lead, mercury, chromium, molybdenum and selenium. In order to validate the GHG reduction and sustainability benefits associated with the repurposing of sargassum, the production process has been evaluated by a third party, using a new methodology developed by the Gold Standard and based on the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). The assessment showed great performance
in relation to SDG 13 (Climate Action) because each tonne of sargassum prevented from breaking down saves 0.5 tonnes equivalent of CO2
; SDG 3 (Good Health & Wellbeing) thanks
to the prevention of hydrogen sulfide release; and SDG 8 (Decent Work & Economic Growth) because of the creation of new economy and jobs for the locals who may have lost jobs because of the impact of sargassum on tourism.
105
Sargassum washed up on a beach in Belize
Conclusions The pandemic is close to the end, yet its impact on consumers values and the way we use natural resources has had a lasting disruptive impact. There is a greater need and opportunity to create new cosmetic ingredients and products meeting these new values, without compromising on performance. Repurposed sargassum extract, not only meets all these new values, but also has the additional regenerative potential for marine life, the local economy saving also other earth resources, reducing waste in general.
References: 1
https://www.hull.ac.uk/work-with-us/more/ media-centre/news/2022/celebrity-style-a- turn-off-for-savvy-shoppers
2
https://www.usgs.gov/special-topics/ water-science-school/science/how-much- water-there-earth#:~:text=About%2071%20 percent%20of%20the,percent%20of%20 all%20Earth’s%20water
3
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science- environment-48869100
PC
4
https://www.ipcc.ch/2021/10/31/cop26-st-hl/ 5
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/ PMC7049257/
www.personalcaremagazine.com
April 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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