NATURALS
Enhancing emotional wellbeing with plant cells
O. Expósito, A. Guirado, R. Vallecillo, D. Robustillo, M. Mas, A. Gallego, P. Riera, D. Luna, T. Ruiz, S. Laplana, S. Ruiz, M. Gibert - Vytrus Biotech ABSTRACT
Stress has an impact on skin and general appearance that ranges from dryness or wrinkles to more serious conditions, such as psoriasis or atopic dermatitis. Curcuma Longa (turmeric) callus lysate is a multi- active ingredient from turmeric stem cells that acts against stress wrinkles, working as an emotional wellbeing manager and as a modulator of the brain-skin connection. Several in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo assays were carried out to demonstrate the efficacy of the active ingredient.
Traditionally, the skin reactions targeted by cosmetic products have always been linked to external factors, physiological reasons, molecular interactions or biomedical causes. Nowadays there is a new holistic approach, considering how humans are affected by emotions and specifically how negative emotions have an adverse impact on skin. This has given place to psycho-dermatology1 considers all aspects of brain-skin interaction2 Stress, tiredness and lack of sleep all affect
Psychosocial stress has an immediate impact on skin because of the action of excess stress hormones that are released, altering skin homeostasis. Cortisol is one of the key hormones in the
, which .
our skin in many ways. Our immune system is disturbed, making the skin more vulnerable and causing both inflammation and dehydration. More wrinkles appear, while existing wrinkles become deeper; there is a loss of elasticity, a delay in wound healing, damage to skin structure and a decrease in barrier function. In severe cases, it can even result in atopic dermatitis, psoriasis or acne3
.
There is indeed a relationship between the skin and the nervous system, both cell types coming from the same embryonic tissue4
.
Basal medium (0.1% FBS)
stress response and, when accumulated on skin, it can cause physiological disruptions. It is important to highlight the key role of this hormone as a stress mediator. Stress-related hormones directly affect the water balance of the skin and ultimately the appearance and deepening of wrinkles. Curcuma longa (turmeric) is a tropical and
sub-tropical plant characterised by very ramified cylindrical and orange rhizomes. These are modified roots which act as storage resistance organs. They grow very long and have excellent regenerative properties. Rich in diarylheptanoids (mainly curcumin), Curcuma longa is the most studied plant in biomedicine, with huge potential due to its multiple properties (antioxidant, anti- inflammatory, wound healing, antimicrobial, DNA protection, etc.).
Positive control (10% FBS)
Turmeria ZEN (0.25 µg/ml)
Plant stem cells rich in stress-related factors Vytrus simulated what happens in stressed skin, using turmeric cell cultures, and treated them with plant stress hormones with a cortisol-like effect. This causes the plant cells to produce a defensive cocktail of molecules, such as diarylheptanoids and phytosterols (mimicking the effect of cortisol in the skin). The cell cultures were simultaneously stressed osmotically, hindering the uptake of water to the cell (water management), which also happens in stressed skin. Under these stress factors, the plant cell
cultures of turmeric generate a specific plasma rich in cell factors (PRCF) to protect themselves. Vytrus Biotech has developed this as an active ingredient called Turmeria Zen™ (INCI: Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Callus Lysate), which is hereafter referred to as turmeric lysate. This active is the concentrated metabolome
from Curcuma longa totipotent cells. It is rich in stress-response cell factors that are specially designed to act synergistically against stress in our brain-skin connection. It also represents a new activity profile for the species, while being 100% natural origin according to ISO 16128, COSMOS-approved and free from preservatives, GMOs, BSE, gluten, palm oil, cosmetic allergens, CMR ingredients, nanomaterials and VOCs.
Biological activity We carried out tests to determine the ability of turmeric lysate to fight the different skin problems related to emotionally stressed skin: inflammation, delay in wound healing and damage of the skin structure. To measure its anti-inflammatory activity
Figure 1: Regenerating effect on HDF of turmeric lysate
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and its effect in the immune system, inflamed human monocytes (THP1) were treated with the
April 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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