62 NUTRICOSMETICS
Nutricosmetic potential of natural astaxanthin
Peter Ahlm – AstaReal
For the last decade, the global skin care market has grown steadily and it is predicted to be worth nearly $190 billion by 2025.1
During the
coronavirus pandemic, an increasing number of consumers have prioritised health and wellness. However, the industry is also witnessing a shift in demand, with a growing number of younger people now looking to support their skin health earlier on in life. This has led to growth in the usage
of skincare supplements, with so-called nutricosmetics set to dominate the market in terms of revenue in the coming years. According to a report by Future Market Insights, the global nutricosmetics segment is expected to grow steadily over the forecast period 2020-2030, with a CAGR of more than 8%.2 Rising interest from younger consumers keen
to preserve their youthful looks is a major driver of the category’s growth. They understand the importance of prevention rather than cure, are aware of what constitutes a healthy diet, and accept that whole-body wellness and the health of the skin microbiome are interconnected. More than ever, the link between nutrition
and skin conditions is becoming apparent to consumers: if you provide your body with the right nutrients and create a healthy internal environment, it will show on the outside. As a functional ingredient, astaxanthin is highly appealing to nutricosmetic manufacturers, who are seeking to expand product lines with innovative new offerings.
Beauty from the inside out As we get older, our skin ages and loses elasticity. It becomes thinner, and wrinkles and age spots develop. UV light and smoke induce the formation of free radicals that trigger the breakdown of collagen fibrils. These fibrils are essential for the skin’s health and elasticity. Poor diet and lifestyle habits also contribute to
the acceleration of visible signs of ageing. In order to combat free radicals, the body produces several endogenous antioxidants and enzymes, but it can also benefit from additional antioxidants obtained through diet, such as natural astaxanthin. As shown in more than 500 peer-reviewed studies, natural astaxanthin from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis is one of the most powerful antioxidants known to science. Research shows that it is effectively absorbed in the skin following supplementation and gives superior protection to the cells compared to other carotenoids.
PERSONAL CARE April 2022
Haematococcus pluvialis microalgae Owing to its unique molecular structure,
astaxanthin is stronger than any other antioxidant: it is able to span the cell membrane’s hydrophilic and hydrophobic layers, thus quenching free radicals and protecting the cell’s interior and exterior from oxidative stress. For instance, it has been shown to be 110 times more effective than vitamin E.3
In addition, it has
anti-inflammatory properties. Topical applications, like serums and creams,
reach the surface of the skin but cannot get down into the deeper layers that contribute to skin’s elasticity and nourishment. Taking natural astaxanthin orally promotes healthy skin from the inside out. Astaxanthin improves the circulation and
supply of nutrients to the hypodermis, the deepest layer of the skin. It also protects collagen integrity in the dermis, neutralises UV-induced free radicals causing skin damage in the epidermis and prevents roughness by improving moisture retention in the outermost skin layer.
Natural UV protection A double-blind placebo-controlled study with 23 healthy people has shown that astaxanthin seems to protect against UV-induced skin deterioration.4
changes of moisture and transepidermal water loss at baseline, and after nine weeks of supplementation. The astaxanthin group showed increased MED and a reduced loss of skin moisture in the irradiated area compared with the placebo. Subjective skin conditions for improvement of rough skin and texture in non- irradiated areas were significantly improved by astaxanthin. Another study in which 28 women
were supplemented with 6 mg of natural astaxanthin for eight weeks, in combination with topical treatment, showed similar results with regards to improved moisture.5
The mean
depth and width of the wrinkles around the eye region were also reduced compared to the measurements before the treatment. In addition, clinical trials conducted in
Japan showed that 6 or 12 mg AstaReal® natural astaxanthin per day prevented skin deterioration throughout the seasonal changes between August and December, when environmental factors such as UV light and dryness tend to exacerbate skin health.6 While wrinkles and dryness worsened in
the control group, the astaxanthin group was more resilient and maintained their healthy skin throughout the seasons. This result suggests that long-term prophylactic astaxanthin supplementation may inhibit age-related skin deterioration, and prevent skin conditions associated with environmentally induced damage, thanks to its anti-inflammatory effect.
Benefits beyond skin care Given these health benefits, it is not surprising that natural astaxanthin is gaining a lot of attention among consumers. In the UK, popular blogs such as Mind Body Green, as well as leading publications such as Metro and Women’s Health, have featured astaxanthin. Driven by consumer demand for health and wellness products, astaxanthin is experiencing huge growth in the European and Asian market. A report in 2018 predicted that the
global market for natural astaxanthin from Haematococcus pluvialis would grow at a CAGR of approximately 13% to reach $770 million by 2024.7
The participants either received
a capsule containing 4 mg of astaxanthin or a placebo daily for nine weeks. To assess the protective role of astaxanthin,
the researchers determined the minimal erythema dose (MED) and analysed UV-induced
According to 2021 data from Innova Market
Insights, in the past three years in Europe, there has been a 14% increase (CAGR) of new product launches that include natural astaxanthin. The nutrient’s popularity is increasing quickly,
and not solely because of its clinically validated health benefits. Sustainability and traceability
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