12 NEWS Kline eyes post-COVID recovery
“Personal care ingredients will play a vital role in the economic recovery of countries post COVID-19,” said Kunal Mahajan, project manager in Kline’s Chemicals & Energy practice in a blog entitled ‘Personal Care Ingredients: Where the Opportunities Lie Post COVID-19’. Demand for colour cosmetics,
hair styling and sun care products declined significantly due to the effects of lockdown, with knock- on effects on the ingredients used in them. These markets bounced back in 2021; they have yet to regain 2019 levels but their further recovery is expected to drive market growth this year. By contrast, ingredients used in
products like soaps, shampoos and hand sanitisers boomed in 2020 and have continued to grow in 2021. These include preservatives, surfactants, emollients and conditioning polymers. The pandemic had a major
effect on supply chains and even now raw material sourcing remains
this remains a trend, with alkyl polyglucosides being the preferred alternatives. Some amino acid- based surfactants, like glutamates and sarcosinates, are also experiencing increased demand. Finally, a similar trend toward
“bumpy” thanks to shortages of containers, longer lead times and significant prices increases. In some instances, local suppliers have benefitted.
“Within the colour cosmetics
segment, we look for a wave of consumers using more sophisticated and dramatic makeup, particularly related to eyes and lips,” Mahajan said. Consumers are now seeking “to emerge from their cocoons in a very dramatic way”, while their return to the office will boost demand for hair styling
New vitamin B12 from DSM
DSM has launched a naturally derived grade of vitamin B12 (INCI: Cyanocobalamin). This is produced through non-GMO bacterial fermentation, has a natural origin index of 68.7%, and is both Halal-approved and vegan-compliant. The new grade is said to
relieve sensitive and stressed skin, and to help soothe itchy, irritated, inflamed, red and cracked skin. It also acts to prevent photo-damage and protect the skin barrier damage induced by inflammation, while helping to speed up cell
recovery and regeneration, and imparting “a pleasant pink colour” to products. According to tests cited by
DSM, this ingredient is active on atopic dermatitis, reducing erythema and pruritus in vivo. It prevents inflammation ex vivo, with strong reductions of inflammasome and inflammatory cytokines, such Il1-ß. At 0.01% concentration, it reduces the over-expression of miR-22-3p by 61%, leading to a reduction of inflammasome ex vivo. Finally, it reduces mast cell degranulation by 31%.
products. Sun care products will recover as travel opportunities return. Partly because of the increased
focus on self-care during the pandemic, ‘clean beauty’ continues to surge. As well as plant-based, organic and naturally occurring ingredients, consumers are looking at ingredients that are produced in a sustainable manner and are locally and ethically sourced, such as plant-derived proteins. Raw material shortages may
have dampened down the drive to sulfate-free surfactants, but
milder ingredients is being seen in antimicrobials. Increasing regulations, limitations in use, and public scrutiny over formaldehyde donors, parabens, isothiazolinones and halogen organic compounds, are leading to their substitution. Benzyl alcohol and organic acids will see major growth at their expense.
The 11th edition of
Kline’s ‘Personal Care Ingredients: Global Market Analysis’ will be published shortly. This will cover the consumption, supply, and pricing of ingredients used in personal care formulations, and will also evaluate drivers and restraints affecting the market and build a five-year forecast model, covering market opportunities in the post-COVID world.
Two more launches from Miyoshi Europe
Miyoshi Europe has launched both the MiyoFlex EV technology and its new MiyoNat SFT references range recently. The former is described
as “a new way of formulating that allows the optimal implementation of treated pigments in natural formulas through COSMOS-approved solid dispersions”. These include mascaras, foundations, lipsticks and creams. MiyoFlex EV is a solid
dispersion of treated pigments in silicone and in both polar and non-polar oils. As well as being dust-free, the company said that it is easy to weigh and handle, with no grinding step required. Meanwhile, MiyoNAT SFT is
a range of treated pigments and fillers, including six COSMOS- approved references. They are aluminium- and palm-free, making them suitable for vegan formulas.
PERSONAL CARE April 2022 Miyoshi said that they
disperse very easily in oils, due to very low oil absorption and in liquid formulas, they improve colour development while providing a light texture and natural coverage. In compact formulations, they are claimed to provide excellent cohesive properties, enabling formulators to reduce the percentage of binder used, while not having the greasy feel of many conventional ester treatments.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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