60 ANTI-AGEING
can enhance the visibility of the skin relief. Devices available are Antera 3D (Miravex), C-Cube (Pixience), NeoVoir II (C-Lab), TIVI 90 (Wheelsbridge), VisiaCR (Canfield) and VisioFace (C+K) ■ Shadow & grey level analysis, i.e., acquisition by photography or video microscopy, using a VisioScan (C+K). Several parameters of the wrinkles are calculated such as the total surface, the number, the total and average length, the average depth and the distribution of the wrinkles by type ■ 3D fringe projection analysis, covering several parameters of surface roughness, including Rt, Ra, Rmax, Rz, Nr, Sn, Lo, Wt and also morphological parameters of surface, volume, maximal or average depth of the wrinkles. Devices available are AEVA- HE 110, Dermatop-HE (Eotech) and Primos (Canfield) ■ 3D images and data modelling using a ColorFace (Newtone Technologies). This technology represents the new trends of wrinkles analysis with the opportunity of 3D reconstructed images and average images
Challenges of wrinkle evaluation Repositioning with exact position and face expression is maybe the first one, the size of the measurement range, the accuracy of the devices, the duration of the analysis, the contactless devices and the inclusion of the subjects. As with other claims, wrinkle evaluation depends on the subject’s ethnic origin. There is no unique method considered as gold standard. It is a multi-criterion choice including marketing needs and scientific objectivation. In the concept of well-being, the notion
of anti-ageing means little; one might as well say ‘pro-age’ or ‘plain age’, the condition of the skin being thought in its entirety. The identification of the properties of these products uses a sensory approach, sometimes neurosensory and holistic. The feeling and the impacts on the quality of life are measured. The investigators can choose the tests in
five main categories - consumer tests, sensory or emotional analysis, biometrological studies and clinical scores – or they can design study protocols combining two or three of them. Table 1 lists all the devices that can be used for quantitative, semi-quantitative or imaging objectivations. Depending on the target of the skin care, there are many ways to validate the performance of each product. The investigators can choose among the various studied effects and design a multi-parametric protocol.
Whether for small or big areas, these
biometrological techniques always look for perfect data acquisition with the best repositioning, higher resolution, quicker capture times and an automatic rotation system. We advise investigators to take time with the CROs to design each protocol and define precisely, the inclusion criteria, the time measurements, treatment conditions and the optimal device. Time taken on these essential elements is never wasted. Finally, another major trend, anti-
PERSONAL CARE April 2022
TABLE 2: ANTI-AGEING CLAIM SUBSTANTIATION-CLINICAL ASSESSMENT Studied effect
Methods and Devices Biomechanical Wrinkle relief
Face morphology & volume
Hydration Barrier function Age-spots
Gloss, complexion and radiance
Skin surface
Cutometer, Cutiscan (C+K), Dynaskin & SkinFlex (Onion), Ballistometer (Dia- Stron)
AEVAHE, Dematop-HE (Eotech), ColorFace (Newtone technologies, Clarity 3D (BTBP), PrimosLite-Primos 3D (Canfield), Visioscan VC 98 (C+K), Antera 3D (Miravex), C-Cube (Pixience)
ColorFace (Newtone), AEVAHE, Dermatop HE (Eotech), Vectra Ole, Primos (Canfield), Observ 320 (Innofaith), HeadScan (Onion)
Comeometer and MoistureMap (C+K), Epsilon (Biox), DPM 9003 (NovaTech), Moisturemeter SC (Delfin), DermaLab (Cortex), Skicon-200...
Tewameter TM 300 and Nano (C+K), Aquaflux (Biox), Evaporimeter, Vapometer (Delfin), Dermalab (Cortex) etc.
Mexameter MX 18, Colorimeter (C+K), SkinColorCatch (Delfin) Tivi 70 Skin Colour (Wheelsbridge), C-Cube (Pixience), Chromameter (Minolta), SpectraCam (Newtone)
ColorFace (Newtone), Goriolux (Onion), Skin GlossyMeter (C+K), SkinGlossMeter (Delfin)
SpectraCam (Newtone), Epsilon (Biox), Dermatop-HE (EcoTech), Visia-CR (Canfield), Visioface and Visioscan (C+K), SiaScope (MedXhealth), ViewSkin, C-Cube (Pixience), Antera 3D (Miravex), TiVi80 (Wheels bridge), Clarity 3D Mini (BTBP), Neo Voir II (C-Lab Co), SIAScope (Medxhealth) & all videomicroscopes
Skin structure Skin molecular content Global aspect
Dubskin-scanner, dermatop-HE (Ecotech), LC-OCT (Damae), Antera 3D (Miravex), Sonde Raman (Horiba Jobin), Vivascope (Mavig), ViVosight (Michel- son), TiVi80 (Wheelbridge), Dermascan (Cortex)
LC-OCT (Damae), Sonda Raman (Horiba Jobin), FibroTX (Ecotech), Raman spectroscopy -SCA (RiverD), genomic, metabolomic, proteomic analysis
Visual & tactile objectivation with scoring by technician experts and dermatologists using specific scales and photos, sensory analysis by trained panels or naive subjects, Emotion evaluation by IA consumer testing
pollution, integrates the concepts of anti-ageing and well-being. A protection component against pollution becomes in effect a preventive anti-ageing activity, as pollutants are genuine oxidative factories. In parallel the ‘well-being’ component is evoked through purifying, cleaning and repairing effects in post-pollution treatment.
Bright future of skin science These various high-tech biometrological measurements give us the opportunity to
connect the technology with the new digital use of personalisation from the shop to the bathroom. This connection between objectivation and the digital way of choosing and buying may bring cosmeticians closer to the reality of marketing. Now the imaging of the skin from centimetre
to nanometre scale is more and more crucial. It is used to measure the several elements and structure of the skin: water, lipids, dermal- epidermal junction, extracellular matrix and fibres. Whether for ageing, radiance,
biomechanical properties or moisturising, the different techniques look for higher resolution, larger measurement area, non- invasive, no-contact and direct methods. The algorithms and the statistics are the principal future contribution of the success of these new technologies. The combinations of classical biometric
measurements with more high-tech devices and specific biomarkers can provide a better understanding of the organisation of the skin structure and its functions. It increases the accuracy of the measurements and gives new perspective in the claim substantiation of cosmetics and its application on ethnically diverse populations. The era of connected devices for skin diagnosis or DNA analysis combined with personalisation treatment sounds great for skin care evaluation. These digital tools will enable the development of new products to answer consumers’ requirements.
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