58 ANTI-AGEING
TABLE 1: ANTI-AGEING CLAIM SUBSTANTIATION-CLINICAL ASSESSMENT Action
Claims Care
Anti-wrinkle Moisturising Lifting
Complexion & radiance Strengthen the epidermal junction Protection
Anti-UVA+UVB Anti-blue light Anti-infrared
Anti-free radical / antioxidant Anti-pollution DNA protection
Care
Anti-age spot Oval face
Resculpting Anti-pollution Experts agree that six primary emotions
constitute the common and universal base of individuals: pleasure, sadness, fear, disgust, surprise and anger. The emotional response as a subjective feeling associated with an event is spontaneous, instantaneous, rapid and universal. The brain rapidly and unconsciously evaluates the effect of the application of a cosmetic product. When it comes to claims, the study of
emotions makes it possible to evaluate a wide range of perceptions caused by the application of a product and the improvements in self-representation as well as the physiological effects induced. There is no single and direct method
to measure emotions scientifically but a multitude of methods. To increase the reliability of these analyses resulting from an unconscious and implicit process, it is necessary to consider in the design of the protocols, the claim sought, the type of product studied the typology of consumers, and to integrate the combination of the three components of the emotion: ■ Expressive or behavioural: What modifies facial and postural expressions is studied using eye-tracking, facial expressions, prosody, verbatim, gestures and the Facial Action Coding System (FACS) ■ Physiological: What changes body parameters is studied using EEG, FEMG, salivary cortisol dosage, cytokine dosage, skin temperature, skin conductance, heart rate, breathing rate and blood pressure ■ Subjective or cognitive: What can be verbalised is studied using psychological or quality of life questionnaire and self- assessment
Exposome process beyond ageing mechanisms
The phenomena influencing the skin ageing are now well known. Today, two main factors that influence skin ageing are considered: one intrinsic, the second extrinsic. This is how the 20th century differentiated the environmental factors called exposomes, the main one
PERSONAL CARE April 2022
being exposure to the sun but also tobacco, sun, pollution, food, alcohol, cigarettes, medicines, etc.; and factors related to our biological clock, i.e., the genome. During consultations with the elderly,
the signs of ageing observed are mainly skin atrophy, xerosis and various keratoses. The skin abnormalities that characterise photoageing depend on the light or dark phototype. Light skin becomes marked instead, while dark skin becomes thicker. UVB and UVA rays cause severe damage to the dermis. The exposome can be summed up mainly
by the oxidative stress caused by different environmental conditions. Pro-age treatment can boost blood circulation, encouraging collagen production and helping lift, plump and define contours for a firmer appearance. Moisturising ingredients are used for immediate and long-term effects, as they increases skin elasticity and firmness while gently exfoliating dead skin cells. Antioxidant or anti-free radical effects are
associated with most anti-ageing treatments because they meet the protective needs of the mechanisms of the different skin layers. A true magic formula, they maintain the skin’s barrier function, its regeneration and its ability to fight aggression. The cannabidiol (CBD) trend, despite
Chinese regulations, continues its ascent. The expected effects of CBD in cosmetics are more specifically soothing, anti-pruritus and calming the inflammation of sensitive, reactive or fragile skin, all of which can be associated with anti-ageing care. The major consequences concern skin, mainly changes in the epidermis- dermis-hypodermis junctions. The growing complexity of lifestyles in the last decade has been impacting the way anti-ageing treatments are used. In another way, the industry anticipates the latest and global technological evolution, such as genomics, AI and the Internet of Things, to develop, produce and market these specific skin care technologies and answer the regulation constraints and consumer demand.
Biometrological studies The category of anti-ageing represents the most numerous, precise and specific claims of all cosmetic products. In addition to the geographical variations of their regulatory status according to each country, their performances generally announce several effects on mechanisms: ■ Targeted: skin relief, collagen, cellular communication, dermo-epidermal junction, etc. ■ Localised: crow’s feet, lion’s wrinkles, oval face, etc. ■ Focused on different skin depths: the epidermis, the dermal-epidermal junction and the dermis ■ Interconnected in various cellular and biochemical mechanisms, i.e. microbiota, keratinocytes, fibroblasts, melanocytes and nerve receptors More than classical efficacy on the skin
surface and structure, skin care dedicated to mature skin reveals improvements on emotional, well-being and sensoriality properties, but the cutaneous signs of ageing are still being studied intensively and with great accuracy as a tangible proof of product performance. The promise is a recovery of tissue elasticity, the shape of the face, plumpness and volume appearance. A list of the principal signs of ageing influencing age perception can be established even their importance differs among different ethnicities. Skin tone is generally considered as ageing among Asian, with skin dullness and hyperpigmentation. Among Caucasians, wrinkles – particularly around the eye and forehead areas – are the important signs. Sagging skin around the mouth and jawline is also described earlier than in other ethnicities. Anti-ageing claims, because the concept
is vast, include, among others, firmness, radiance, anti-sagging, energising, improves barrier function, boosting cellular renewal and attenuating senescence spots – the list goes on. We can categorise skin ageing signs thus:
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