84 ANTI-AGEING


Acacia tree Iconic symbol of the African savannah


Figure 2: Collagen-mimicking biopolymers from the acacia tree As demonstrated below, the cosmetic


preparation based on this complex polymer composition also shares many of the cosmetic benefits of genuine collagen, such as its anti- ageing and moisturising efficacy, its ability to improve skin barrier function and its excellent film-forming properties. This makes acacia collagen a plant-derived cosmetic alternative to animal collagen.


Consumer survey We carried out a survey of overall consumer expectations about collagen in general, its use and its benefits in cosmetics. Then, we asked consumers to directly compare plant-derived collagen with synthetic and animal collagen, to find the most attractive form for cosmetics. In the first part, 42 women were asked


to rate six statements related to collagen in general on a scale from 0 to 10. In the second part, the same subjects were asked their opinion about which source of collagen they would prefer in respect to product safety, product efficacy or general preference for use in cosmetics. The results are very clear. First, consumers


associate collagen with cosmetic benefits: they expect it to be a powerful active


62% 62% 2% 7% 2% Plant-derived ■ Animal-derived ■ Synthetic ■ No difference ■


Figure 4: Consumer opinion about their preferred source of collagen in cosmetics Note: 1 - Plant-derived, 2 - Animal-derived, 3 - Synthetic, 4 - No difference. N = 42.


PERSONAL CARE April 2022 www.personalcaremagazine.com


Which collagen type has the highest efficacy?


Disagreement


Topical application of collagen improves skin firmness/elasticity Topical application of collagen reduces wrinkles and fine lines Topical application of collagen improves skin hydration


Topical application of collagen has a volumising/plumping effect Collagen is one of the most powerful anti-ageing ingredients Topical application of collagen forms a protective film on the skin


0 2


Figure 3: Consumer opinion about the cosmetic benefits of collagen Note: N = 42, Median + SEM.


ingredient with anti-ageing (firming, wrinkle reduction, plumping), moisturising and protective properties (Figure 3). Second, consumers have a clear preference for plant- derived collagen (Figure 4). When given the choice between plant-derived, animal- derived and synthetic collagen, they attribute higher efficacy and more safety to the former. Therefore, strong cosmetic concepts


can be built on collagen as consumers already associate it with cosmetic benefits


57% 29% 57% 12%


Which collagen type is the safest?


and positive attributes. This advantage is elaborated even further by choosing the right source of collagen: a plant-derived alternative.


In vivo activity In a double-blinded, placebo-controlled, randomised, in vivo study, two groups of 20 women with mixed to dry skin and with signs of ageing - such as wrinkles and lack of skin firmness - applied a face cream twice daily


69% 29% 57%


Which collagen type would you prefer in your cosmetic cream?


29% 5% 4 6 Consumer rating 8 10 Full agreement


Acacia collagen


Traditional material harvested since antiquity


PhytoCollagen


Cosmetic preparation based on acacia gum


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