EYE AREA CARE


promoting the biosynthesis, function and stabilisation of collagen, and exhibiting human type-1 collagen activity. The collagen-boosting properties start with the fragments’ ability to act as building blocks for collagen synthesis. In vitro testing showed the presence of benth extract increased the production of procollagen-1, the precursor to type-1 collagen, by 150%. Integrin sub-units α2 and β1 are also


increased in the presence of benth extract, by 39% and 15% respectively. Integrins are essential to the dermal collagen network, as they provide binding sites between collagen fibrils and fibroblasts, the primary component of the extracellular matrix (ECM). This provides structure to cells and tissues in the body. Benth extract also increases ECM contractility, which allows collagen fibres to tense, leading to visibly firmer skin (Figure 11) Epidermal cell adhesion is also improved by


53% in vitro, which helps to maintain epidermal structural integrity and barrier formation. Measuring fluorescent bead displacement on human explants, the epidermal compactness and tension was studied. 1% active ingredient (0.000001% benth extract) increased bead displacement by 200%, indicating a firm and smooth skin surface that enabled the bead movement (Figure 12) The effects of benth extract on the skin were


further confirmed in an in vivo study involving 20 female volunteers aged 50-62, who applied a cream with 2% active ingredient (0.000002% benth extract) on half of the face and a placebo on the other, twice daily for 28 days. Wrinkle length and depth, as well as skin brightening and lifting, were assessed. The key results showed a reduction of up


ProductVision3ChAd 20 NEW.qxp_Layout 1 15/12/2020 12:18 Page 1


to 21% in crow’s feet wrinkle length and up to 34% wrinkle depth after just 30 minutes, with averages of 5% and 19% respectively. An average of 20% increase in skin brightness in the under eye and cheek area was also observed after 28 days (Figure 13)


Figure 10: Reduction of dark circles in Volunteer 20, Days 0 & 28


75


Basal


0.01 mg/ml Col-Frag remastered


0.05 mg/ml Col-Frag remastered


Figure 11: Contractility of basal cells treated with benth extract after seven days Another panel of 20 female volunteers


aged 47-62, applied a cream with 2% ascorbyl glucoside (a stabilised form of vitamin C known for inducing collagen synthesis) on one half of the face and a cream with a combination of 1% active ingredient (0.000001% benth extract) and 1% ascorbyl glucoside on the other, twice daily for 28 days. Whilst this study showed that using only


ascorbyl glucoside had a weaker anti-ageing effect than collagen amino acids, it also found that there is a synergistic effect between vitamin C and benth extract, with a boosted effect observed when both ingredients are combined at the same concentration. After 28 days, an average 24% decrease in crow’s feet wrinkle depth was recorded, compared to 21%


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using 2% acsorbyl acid alone and 20% with just 2% active ingredient (Figure 14).14


Elastic Eye Butter Elastic Eye Butter is a high-naturality formulation designed to give instant improvement of imperfections and long-lasting, highly efficacy anti-ageing action. Collagen amino acids are used to achieve long term crow’s feet reduction, as well as a brightening effect. KoboBlur 100 Natural (INCI: Silica, Cellulose,


Mica, Barium Sulfate, CI 77891, Jojoba Esters) is a combination of soft focus and smoothing agents which gives an instant youthful appearance16, while Imercare Matte (INCI: Kaolin) helps to reduce shine from the butter.


For more information email us at sales@asdsoftware.com www.asdsoftware.com


www.personalcaremagazine.com April 2022 PERSONAL CARE


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