38 NATURALS
active for 24 hours. The TNF-α and IL-8 levels (pro-inflammatory cytokines) were quantified from the cell structure supernatant by ELISA. The positive control of anti-inflammatory action was dexamethasone. The results show that turmeric lysate
completely restored TNF-α and IL-8 levels from the inflamed cells. The effect was very potent at all tested doses, reaching up to 97% and 78% respectively. This was higher than dexamethasone and similar to the mindfulness effect5
. In a second test, an in vitro assay, it was
demonstrated that turmeric lysate was able to capture up to an 82% of the free radical DPPH, showing a significant antioxidant capacity compared to the control. According to the literature, stressed skin heals slower than regular skin6
. To see the effect
of the active, a scratch test was performed and the healing process was monitored by phase- contrast microscopy. Turmeric lysate regenerated human dermal
fibroblasts (HDFs) by up to 72% at 24 hours and up to 63% at 48 hours compared to baseline conditions (Figure 1). The enhancing effect at 24 hours was higher than 10% that of the positive control, foetal bovine serum, thus showing a growth factor-like effect. Stressed skin releases excess of cortisol,
which causes skin damage. To test the protection of the active against cortisol, human organotypic skin explant cultures were used. The skin was stressed by exposure of healthy explants to hydrocortisone (10µg/ml) daily and was compared to non-stressed skin. The stressed skin was also treated, in
parallel, with 0.5% or 1% turmeric lysate daily. Images were taken by optical microscopy from histological sections stained with Masson’s trichrome, and the levels of collagen and elastin were quantified by colorimetry after 12 days. The active ingredient was demonstrated
ex vivo to protect the collagen and elastin degradation levels up to 89% and up to
3.00 2.50 2.00 1.50 1.00 0.50 0.00
Untreatment skin (non-stressed control)
protection degradation 53% 89% hydrocortisone)
Stressed skin (+10ug/ml
Stressed skin +0.5%
Stressed skin +1%
Turmeria ZEN
3.50 3.00 2.50 2.00 1.50 1.00 0.50 0.00
Untreatment skin (non-stressed control)
protection degradation 34% 96% Non stressed skin (10ug/ml hydrocortisone daily) Stressed skin +
Stressed skin + 1% Turmeria ZEN
hydrocortisone)
Stressed skin (+10ug/ml
Stressed skin +0.5%
Stressed skin +1%
Turmeria ZEN
Figure 2: Protection of cortisol-stressed explants after applying turmeric lysate * Note: * Mainly collagen Type I
96% compared to stressed skin explants, respectively, showing a more structured and densified skin. This shows that it prevents the adverse effects of excessive hydrocortisone on the skin, thus protecting the dermal fibres (collagen and elastin) from stress-induced degradation (Figure 2). In an ex vivo test of regenerative activity, we
looked at how turmeric lysate demonstrated regenerative properties on punch biopsies (epidermis removal of 8 mm diameter, leaving the inner 3 mm circle with epidermis). After the application of turmeric lysate on Days 0, 3 and 5, the biopsies were analysed on Day 8. Figure 3 shows that turmeric lysate has a higher epidermal regeneration than epidermal growth factor (EGF), as well as higher dermal redensifying and restructuring effects.
Clinical evaluation For the in vivo test, a panel of 20 volunteers was selected, who were aged 30–50 and subject to intense psychosocial stress, and who did not have a high or very high initial skin hydration. Volunteer selection was done through a State- Trait Anxiety Inventory for Adults questionnaire and a cortisol test in saliva by Salimetrics Europe. This was a single-blind, placebo-controlled
study, with two applications per day in the face of turmeric lysate and a placebo and at 1%, for 28 days. It was carried out during the winter season (January-February) in Poland, which is extra challenging for the skin because of the dryness arising from the intense cold. The measurements were taken on the crow’s feet area. Turmeric lysate significantly increased the
average cutaneous hydration rate by 13% on average from the start of the study after 28 days of treatment (p < 0.001), 4.3 times more than the placebo, proving its effect as an emotional wellbeing manager. This is a very significant value considering that the study was performed on skin that was not selected for its level of dryness but for its level of psychosocial stress. Stress wrinkles are usually deeper than other
kinds of wrinkles and are related to the brain- skin connection. Turmeric lysate significantly reduced the depth of the deepest wrinkles at 28 days (p < 0.05), by 9% on average from the start of the study and up to 40 % as the maximum obtained effect (Figure 4). This shows that the active acts on deep
wrinkles demonstrating a profound smoothing effect. It reduced the depth of deep (110 µm+). wrinkles by an average of 16 µm, with a maximum reduction of 71 µm.
EGF 5 µg/ml East Anglia Turmeria ZEN 50 µg/ml
Figure 3: Regenerative properties of turmeric lysate at 8 days vs. EGF effect Note: Pictures of three different biopsies are shown for both EGF and turmeric lysate). Data from the Norwich Skin Platform, University of
Conclusion Derived from turmeric stem cells, the active ingredient Turmeria ZenTM
acts against
stress wrinkles, especially deep wrinkles, and significantly increases the wellbeing and hydration of stressed skin by protecting and regenerating it, acting as an emotional
PERSONAL CARE April 2022
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Collagen* levels (µg/mg skin)
Elastin levels (µg/mg skin)
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